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November 22, 2015January 19, 2019

Arriving in Santiago

Haz clic aqui para leer en espanol

Neon and I landed in Santiago, Chile two days ago. Last year, Chile revoked the reciprocity fee for Americans, so we did not have to pay to enter the country. The Argentine reciprocity fee has to be prepaid online and a ticket printed out, which we are told will be required upon entering that country.

Flying in to Santiago
Flying in to Santiago, wing over the Andes.

From Arturo Merino Benitez Airport there are 3 options for rides into town. Private taxis which will run around $30 USD, mini buses which offer door to door service for about $10 USD, or airport buses which run around $3 USD per person. We opted for the mini-bus, and they happily accepted USD. This got us the opportunity to trade our dollars in town at a better rate than the airport kiosks offered.

Walking along Paseo Ahumada in the middle of the city.
Marcel and Neon along Paseo Ahumada.

Our gregarious hostel owner, Marcel, showed us around the city on that first day. Teaching us about the history and architecture of the city as well as societal movements of the past decades.

I kept encountering snipets of memory from my childhood. The plaza out in front of the Catedral de Santiago. Had it been decorated in Christmas lights? Or was that a memory from Mallorca? The years and travels overlap amidst smells and sounds.

More of a chemical aftertaste than I remember too. . .
I don’t know what captured my imagination more, the bald condor or the “center plop.” More of a chemical aftertaste than I remember too. . .

One thing I recognize for certain are the sweets and helados.
We nabbed lunch in a back corner of one of the Vegas, where it seems most folks do most of their shopping down here. Fascinating and overwhelming epicenteres of humanity. Everything and anything is sold along the open halls of stalls.

The second day, we climbed Cerro San Cristóbal (San Cristobal Hill) to the statue of Mother Mary. While our generation of Santiagoans proclaim their agnosticism, they do not deny Catholicisms’ influence on their city and roots. We ate our empanadas at the bottom of the hill, just below the zoo then headed up, our bodies rejoicing and straining to actually be doing something. The path up the hill was wide and well worn, Neon commented that it reminds her of the trails around Boulder. We leapfrogged with a crew of high school aged kids between shade spots and spigots of water.

Marcel insisted that, by law, all running water must be potable so, while it does not taste the best, we have been drinking it straight. Check in in the next 2-6 weeks for the validity of his allegation . . .

 

Stray dogs and Mother Mary.
Stray dogs and Mother Mary.

It sounds like spring is in full swing. A contact in Ushuaia said there was fresh snow about a week ago; the mountains from the plane were still thickly blanketed, and the ski resorts around here are hosting spring skiing. Marcel commented on how the seasons seem to have been pushed back by about a month; something I myself said, up in the Rockies, this past year as well.

We are certainly shifting – quite literally, as the next morning, around 4, I was awoken by the building shaking. Another earthquake had occurred some hundreds of miles to the north along the coast. “This is what happens when you live on a fault line,” the Chileans shrugged at it the next morning. Most of the major architecture of the city is adapted for the tremors.

We are honing in on a source for physical maps, still in search of someone/where to leave our trunk of extra gear, and have tickets to Ushuaia in a week and a half. We are both anxious to hike but, knowing we need the business of real world safely settled before we set out, keep pouring over Google Earth pro, getting ever more detailed and excited to head north.

 

 

 

 

 

LLegando a Santiago

Traducción por Henry Tovar

Neon y yo aterrizamos en Santiago, Chile hace dos dias. El año pasado Chile revocó la tasa de reciprocidad para los ciudadanos estadounidenses, por lo que no tuvimos que pagar para entrar al pais. La tasa de reciprocidad en Argentina tiene que pagarse por adelantado por internet y se requiere un boleto impreso, esta es la informacion que nos dicen, necesitamos antes de entrar en este pais.

Flying in to Santiago
Volando hacia Santiago, ala sobre los Andes.

Desde el aeropuerto Arturo Benitez hay 3 opciones para llegar a la ciudad, taxis privados que tienen un costo de aproximado de $30 USD, mini buses que ofrecen servicio puerta a puerta por alrededor de $10 USD, o los autobuses del aeropuerto que cuestan unos $3 USD por persona. Optamos por el mini bus, y felizmente el chofer acepto que pagaramos en USD, esto nos dio la oportunidad de cambiar nuestros dolares en la ciudad a una mejor tasa de las casas de cambio en el aeropuerto ofrecen.

Walking along Paseo Ahumada in the middle of the city.
Marcy y Neon por el paseo Ahumada.

Nuestro querido amigo Marcel, propietario del hostel, nos llevo alrededor de la ciudad ese primer dia. Nos enseño sobre la historia y la arquitectura de la ciudad, asi como los movimientos sociales de las últimas decadas.

Segui encontrando fragmentos de memorias de mi infancia. La plaza frente a la catedral de Santiago. Habian sido decoradas en navidad? O era un recuerdo de Mallorca?, los años y los viajes se superponen en medio de olores y sonidos, mas de un regusto quimico de lo que recuerdo tambien.

 

More of a chemical aftertaste than I remember too. . .
No se que capturo mas mi imaginacion, si el condor calvo, o el “plop del centro”. Mas de un sabor en la boca que puedo recordar.

Una cosa que reconozco con certeza son los dulces y el helado. Tomamos el almuerzo en una esquina trasera en las vegas, donde al parecer la mayoria de las personas hacen sus compras. Epicentros fascinantes de la humanidad. De todo se vende en esos largos pasillos y en esas butacas.

En el Segundo dia, subimos el Cerro San Cristobal, a la estatua de la Madre Maria. Mientras que los santiagueños de nuestra generacion proclaman su agnosticismo, no niegan la influencia catolica en su ciudad y raices. Comimos empanadas en la parte inferior de la colina, justo debajo del zoologico, y luego nos dirigimos colina arriba, nuestros cuerpos se llenaban de regocigo por hacer finalmente algo. El camino hacia la colina fue amplio y bien gastado, Neon comentó que le recordaba los senderos alrededor de Boulder. Nos aproximamos a la cima junto a un grupo de niños de edad de escuela secundaria, entre puntos con sombra y grifos de agua.

Marcel insistió en que por ley, toda el agua que corre por la ciudad debe ser potable, por lo que si bien, no tiene el mejor sabor, pudimos tomarla directo del grifo. Ya veremos la validez de su afirmacion en las siguientes semanas.

Stray dogs and Mother Mary.
Los perros callejeros y la Madre Maria.

Suena como que la primavera esta en plena marcha. Un contacto en Ushuaia nos dijo que hubo nieve fresca hace una semana; las montañas desde el avión se veían plenamente cubiertas aún, y las estaciones de esquí aún reciben esquiadores de primavera. Marcel comentó como parecia que las estaciones estaban retrasadas un mes, algo que yo tambien dije el año pasado en las montanas rocosas.

Ciertamente estamos cambiando – literalmente, ya que la mañana siguiente, alrededor de las 4am, me despertó el movimiento del edificio, otro temblor se había producido a algunos cientos de millas al norte a lo largo de la costa. “esto sucede cuando vives en una linea de falla”, los chilenos se encongian de hombros la manana siguiente. La mayor parte de la arquitectura principal de la ciudad esta adaptada para los temblores.

Nos estamos poniendo a punto con la fuente de los mapas, y todavía en busqueda de alguien o algún lugar donde poder dejar nuestro baúl de material extra, y ya tenemos los tickets para Ushuaia para dentro de una semana y media, ambas estamos ansiosas de empezar a caminar, pero sabiendo que tenemos a salvo nuestras cosas en el mundo real antes de partir, mantenemos un ojo en Google Earth Pro, consiguiendo información cada vez mas detallada, y emocionadas de dirigirnos hacia el norte.

Posted in En Español, Fidgit, Her Odyssey, Planning, Uncategorized
1 Comment
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Comments (1)

  • Laura Lee Schaufler November 23, 2015 at 8:28 am Reply

    Bethany, I really enjoy reading about your grand adventure! I pray for your safety, for wisdom and insight and that you would experience marvelous and wondrous sights and new relationships along the way.

    “May the trail rise up to meet you.
    May your heart rejoice in song.
    May the skies be fair above you
    As you journey ever on. Ever on.
    -Dan Fogelberg

    Blessings to you!
    Laura Lee

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When you practice the bell of mindfulness, you breathe in, and you listen deeply to the sound of the bell, and you say, "Listen, listen." Then you breathe out and you say, "This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home. Our true home is something we all want to go back to. Some of us feel we don't have a home.

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Sometimes we have a feeling of alienation. We feel lonely and as if we are cut off from everything. We have been a wanderer and have tried hard but have never been able to reach our true home. However, we all have a home, and this is our practice, the practice of going home.

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