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August 28, 2016January 19, 2019

Lago Verde to Palena along the Ruta Patrimonial and on to Futaleufu

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

Written by Neon

We soon learned there was a trail called the ‘Ruta Patrimonial’ between the two towns.  We headed out of Lago Verde and followed our gaucho directions to the end of the road, running into a couple other farmers along the way, who generously shared a bit of their time with us, as well as some more information on the route.

Trail Marker

 

Another trail marker

We soon discovered the road turned into a faint two-track and then turned into a horse trail and sometimes disappeared all together, but we found our way without much difficulty. At this point, we were able to realize more quickly if we had taken a wrong turn, and I always had one eye on my compass. There was a bonus to this trail- we found wooden placards every once in a while with a number order to them, so we were able to count down the placards towards Palena. The country had at one point put some money into this trail, though it seemed as though the funding had run out recently because it was overgrown in some spots. A trail is a trail, and we were grateful. We wound up and then down a valley, crossed a few streams, and were into the next valley before our second night.

Beautiful water source
Morning stream crossing – BRRRR

As we followed the trail along the next morning, we noticed there was quite a bit of smoke in the valley, and it smelled strongly of wood smoke. We kept an eye out for flames, but didn’t see any. The smoke persisted throughout the day into the night, and we camped in a smokey valley. I woke up with a sore throat. We lost the trail that day, though every once in a while we would come upon a numbered marker, so we knew we were going the correct direction. As we neared Palena, we ran into a man on horseback (per usual), and he told us about the fire burning outside of town. As usual, life was going on without much concern for the wall of smoke and ash, though with this fire, there was a helicopter dropping water from a nearby river on it. It was an amazing sight- since in the U.S., they would never let a lay person that close to a wild fire, and to be walking towards it for days without any concern was eye-opening. We camped in an abandoned field outside of Palena that night, watching the fire burn on the hillside downwind from us, glowing eerily in the distance as the sun set.

Fidgit and I walked into Palena the next morning and were able to do another in-and-out-of-a-town in one day! We also were able to eat a (metric) ton of empanadas, and they were delicious. As we road walked out of Palena, everyone seemed quite nice and were able to direct us along the way.

Smoke along the Ruta – campfire smell permeates all

We decided to road walk to Futaleufu because our other options were not ideal. The decision was a tough one, as we have both come to the conclusion that road walking is horrible, and we wouldn’t do it if other, more viable options existed. We made the most of our trek along the dirt road, taking photos, snacking, chatting, sing alongs, pretending to be chased by cattle, and of course, laughing at ourselves. We even took advantage of a well-deserved opportunity to swim on a particularly hot day. In a couple of days, some of which seemed unending, we were all of a sudden in ‘Futa’, as the locals call it.

Another cold river crossing

 

Found the source of the smoke

 

EMPANADAS and Fanta

 

Road Walking

 

Cattle herder and his herd

 

Rio Futaleufu, from our campsite

 

Rio Futaleufu and me

Lago Verde to Palena along the Ruta Patrimonial

Escrito por Neon

Traducción por Henry Tovar

Pronto aprendimos que había un rastro de la llamada ‘Ruta Patrimonial “entre las dos ciudades. Nos dirigimos de Lago Verde y seguimos la direcciones que nos dio nuestro gaucho hasta llegar al final del camino, corriendo en un par de otros agricultores en el camino, que generosamente compartieron un poco de su tiempo con nosotros, así como algunos más información sobre la ruta.

Marcador del camino
Otro marcador del camino

Pronto descubrimos que el camino se convirtió en uno débil de dos pistas y luego se convirtió en un camino de herradura y en ocasiones desaparecian todos juntos, pero nos encontramos el camino sin mucha dificultad. En este punto, nos dimos cuenta que hubiésemos sido capaces de realizar con mayor rapidez si hubiéramos tomado el camino equivocado, y yo siempre tenía un ojo puesto en mi brújula.  Había una ventaja para este camino que encontramos carteles de madera de vez en cuando con un número de órdenes a ellos, por lo que fuimos capaces de contar los carteles hacia Palena. El país puso en algún momento algo de dinero en este mapa, a pesar de que parecía como si la financiación se había agotado recientemente Debido a que fue cubierto en algunos puntos. Una pista es una pista, y estamos agradecidos. Nos terminó y luego por un valle, cruzamos un par de arroyos, y estaban en el valle siguiente antes de nuestra segunda noche.

Hermosa fuente de agua
Cruzando de rio por la manana

Al tiempo que  seguimos el rastro a lo largo de la mañana siguiente, nos dimos cuenta de que había un poco de humo en el valle, y que tenía un fuerte olor a humo de leña. Hemos mantenido un ojo a las llamas, pero no vimos ninguna. El humo persistió durante todo el día a la noche, y acampamos en un valle ahumado. Me desperté con un dolor de garganta. perdimos la pista de ese día, aunque de vez en cuando pasábamos sobre unas fichas numeradas, así que sabíamos que íbamos en la dirección correcta. A medida que nos acercamos a Palena, nos encontramos con un hombre a caballo (como es habitual), y nos dijo acerca de la quema fuera de la ciudad. Como de costumbre, la vida estaba pasando sin mucha preocupación por la pared de humo y cenizas, aunque con este fuego, había un helicóptero dejando caer el agua de un río cercano en él. Fue un vista- sorprendente ya que en los EE.UU., nunca dejarían que un laico tan cerca de un fuego salvaje, y que se camina hacia ella durante días sin ninguna preocupación fue revelador. Acampamos en un campo abandonado fuera de Palena Esa noche, viendo el incendio que se extinguirse en la ladera a sotavento de nosotros, brillando de manera inquietante en la distancia mientras se pone el sol.

Fidgit y yo entramos a Palena la mañana siguiente y fuimos capaces de hacer otra entrada y salida de la ciudad en un día! También fuimos  capaces de comer unas toneladas (métricas) de empanadas, y estaban deliciosas. A medida que caminaba el camino de Palena, todo el mundo parecía bastante agradable y nos dirigimos a lo largo del camino.

Humo a lo largo de la ruta, impregno todo con su olor

Decidimos ir a pie por la carretera hasta Futaleufú Debido a que las otras opciones no eran ideales. La decisión fue difícil, ya que las dos hemos llegado a la conclusión de que la carretera a pie es horrible, y no podríamos hacerlo si existían opciones más viables. Hicimos la mayor parte de nuestra caminata a lo largo del camino de tierra, tomando fotos, los refrigerios, el chat, cantando a coro, fingiendo ser perseguidas por el ganado, y por supuesto, riendo de nosotras mismas. Incluso nos aprovechamos de una merecida oportunidad de nadar especialmente en un día caluroso. En un par de días, algunos de los cuales parecía interminable, estábamos de repente en ‘Futa’, como lo llaman los lugareños.

Cruzando otro rio frio
Encontramos la fuente del humo
EMPANADAS y Fanta
Caminando por la carretera
El pastor y su rebano
Rio Futaleufu, desde nuestro campamento
Rio Futaleufu y yo
Posted in En Español, Her Odyssey, Neon, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Uncategorized
2 Comments
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Futaleufu to Cholila through Parque Alerces   

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Comments (2)

  • Henry and Jaki Florsheim August 29, 2016 at 8:33 am Reply

    Always wonderful to hear about your incredible
    adventures. Take care
    Henry and Jaki

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  • Clifford B. Rawley September 2, 2016 at 9:54 am Reply

    Thanks for the wonderful photos. Watch out for those forest fires! Vaya Con Dios!
    Cliff and Martha Rawley

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Excerpts from 'Going Home' by Thich Nhat Hanh:

When you practice the bell of mindfulness, you breathe in, and you listen deeply to the sound of the bell, and you say, "Listen, listen." Then you breathe out and you say, "This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home. Our true home is something we all want to go back to. Some of us feel we don't have a home.

Does a wave have a home? When a wave looks deeply into herself, she will realize the presence of all the other waves. When we are mindful, fully living each moment of our daily lives, we may realize that everyone and everything around us is our home.

Isn't it true that the air we breathe is our home, that the blue sky, the rivers, the mountains, the people around us, the trees, and the animals are our home? 

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Sometimes we have a feeling of alienation. We feel lonely and as if we are cut off from everything. We have been a wanderer and have tried hard but have never been able to reach our true home. However, we all have a home, and this is our practice, the practice of going home.

When we say, "Home sweet home," where is it? When we practice looking deeply, we realize that our home is everywhere. We have to be able to see that the trees are our home and the blue sky is our home. It looks like a difficult practice, but it's really easy. You only need to stop being a wanderer in order to be at home. "Listen, listen. This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home."

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