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  • Speaking & Engagements
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June 4, 2017January 19, 2019

Barreal to Rodeo

Written by Neon

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

1
Fidgit getting water north of Barreal

In Barreal, we were looking for internet and ended up on the front porch of a hostel. The hostel was closed for the season, but the owner kindly gave us his wifi password and some water. We sat on the porch for a few hours, catching up with business stuff before we decided to ask if we would be able to stay for the night. The owner, Maoro, said yes and showed us a room. As he was showing Fidgit around, it turns out that another person who was on an endeavor to walk from Ushuaia to Alaska stopped through here ten years ago. His name was Ian and he spent a month in Barreal!

2
I checked a water source with my feet and found oil in the mud near Calingasta

We were able to do all of our town chores in a day and made our way out of Barreal the next morning, walking towards Calingasta. Having so many town stops along our route has made resupplies easier because we only need food for a few days at most. The thing that is most concerning for us is the stretches between towns that don’t have any water.

We made it to Calingasta in a couple of days, with minimal concerns for water because we were walking along a valley floor with a river flowing to our east. In Calingasta, we were able to quickly resupply and left town in a blowing wind, which is common along the anteplano down here, and we have had the luck of not experiencing much thus far. We had a sidewind, and then a tailwind, pushing us forward to where we finally camped – in some shrubs next to a schoolhouse protected from the winds howling around us. I slept fitfully that night, until the winds died down and the near-full moon set.

3
Enjoying the view in the distance
4
Road walking

The next morning, the day was calm and cloudy- perfect for walking. We packed up and walked through two small ‘villas’ of a few houses each. At the last villa, we also reached our last water source for what we believed to be 90 kilometers. We decided to nap by the water and head out later in the evening after making dinner to save on water consumption. Also, the full moon would be enjoyable and help light our way through the desert. I’m not generally a night owl, but I was up for trying to night hike, and the sun has been setting around 7:30, so it how bad could it be? We ate dinner and left the small villa with high hopes and 8+ liters of water on our backs. I tried for a few hours to enjoy hiking in the light of the full moon, and I believe I failed miserably. I struggled to put one foot in front of the other, I blamed it on the cold wind, the extra 17 pounds on my back, and that I couldn’t nap when we tried earlier in the day. In the end, maybe I’m just not a night hiker. We found a flat spot along the dirt road and passed out around 11 pm.

5
We found some shade under this sign

I slept horribly, and woke up to a cold morning and a hiking partner who also slept poorly. We ambled on, trying to be positive until the sun warmed our bones so much we shed our layers and enjoyed the slight breeze that came up. We saw that Fidgit had marked an abandoned estancia along our route and planned to make it the 35 km there. As we closed in on our goal, we noticed it didn’t look as abandoned as it perhaps once was. We came upon the ‘abandoned estancia’ and walked up to a Gendarmeria, where there were warmly greeted by one of the four men stationed there. They invited us in, shared their fire and dinner with us, and set up mattresses in front of the fireplace for us to sleep on. Many stories were shared, but I was mostly deliriously tired and struggling to sit upright, so I didn’t have much capacity for much else.

6
A full moon rises near the Gendarmeria

We both slept well that night, and left the next morning refreshed and headed downhill into town, knowing we would have enough water to get there. We made it down to the small town of Bella Vista and decided to stealth camp in an abandoned lot and walk into the larger town of Rodeo the next day. We found a small lot full of prickly shrubs and situated ourselves in for the night. We awoke the next morning to cool temperatures and made our way to a gas station to warm up and get some internetting done – we have recently figured out that the YPFs of Argentina have some of the best internet around!

7
The men of the remote Gendarmeria and us

At the gas station, we ran into a guy from Minnesota working on his Masters Thesis. He was also volunteering at a nearby National Park, and we talked with him more than we got things accomplished. It’s been a while since I’ve spoken in person to a native English speaker, and I realized through speaking with him how much I’d simplified my language and forgotten words. As Fidgit and I left the gas station to make it to Rodeo, we made plans with our new friend Andy to meet up later for dinner. We then busted our butts to walk the 15 kilometers to Rodeo before nightfall, and we made it just in time! Unfortunately, Andy’s ride picked him up super late, and we were unable to have dinner together. Fidgit and I found a place to stay in Rodeo, then promptly showered and collapsed into our beds.

8
Dirt road walking – our longest dry stretch

Click here to go directly to Neon’s blog


De Barreal a Rodeo

Escrito por Neon

1
Fidgit se abastece de agua al norte de Barreal

En Barreal, estábamos buscando internet y terminamos en el porche de un albergue. El hostal estaba cerrado por la temporada, pero el propietario amablemente nos dio su contraseña wifi y un poco de agua. Nos sentamos en el porche por unas horas, ponerse al día con cosas de negocios antes de que decidimos preguntar si nos sería capaz de pasar la noche. El dueño, Maoro, dijo que sí y nos mostró una habitación. Mientras estaba mostrando a Fidgit, resulta que otra persona que estaba en un esfuerzo para caminar de Ushuaia a Alaska se detuvo aquí hace diez años. Su nombre era Ian y pasó un mes en Barreal!

2
Revise una fuente de agua con mis pies y encontre aceite en el barro cerca de Calingasta

Pudimos hacer todas nuestras tareas de la ciudad en un día y salimos de Barreal la mañana siguiente, caminando hacia Calingasta. Tener tantos paradas de la ciudad a lo largo de nuestra ruta ha hecho que no suplamos más fácil porque sólo necesitamos comida por unos días a lo más. Lo que más nos preocupa son los tramos entre pueblos que no tienen agua.

Llegamos a Calingasta en un par de días, con un mínimo de preocupaciones por el agua porque estábamos caminando por un piso del valle con un río que fluye a nuestro este. En Calingasta, pudimos re abastecer rápidamente y salimos de la ciudad en un viento soplando, que es común a lo largo del anteplano aquí abajo, y hemos tenido la suerte de no experimentar mucho hasta ahora. Tuvimos un viento lateral, y luego un viento de cola, empujándo hacia adelante a donde finalmente acampamos – en algunos arbustos al lado de una escuela protegida de los vientos aullando alrededor de nosotros. Dormí agitada esa noche, hasta que los vientos se apagaron y la luna llena se puso.

3
Disfrutar de la vista en la distancia
4
Caminar por la calle

La mañana siguiente, el día era tranquilo y nublado, perfecto para caminar. Hicimos las maletas y caminamos por dos pequeñas “villas” de unas pocas casas cada una. En la última villa, también llegamos a nuestra última fuente de agua para lo que creíamos que era de 90 kilómetros. Decidimos tomar una siesta por el agua y salir más tarde en la noche después de hacer la cena para ahorrar en el consumo de agua. Además, la luna llena sería agradable y ayudar a iluminar nuestro camino a través del desierto. No soy generalmente un búho de la noche, pero estaba para arriba para intentar a la caminata de la noche, y el sol ha estado fijando alrededor 7:30, así que qué mal podría ser? Cenamos y dejamos la pequeña villa con grandes esperanzas y 8+ litros de agua en nuestra espalda. He intentado por unas horas para disfrutar de senderismo a la luz de la luna llena, y creo que fracasé miserablemente. Me costó poner un pie delante del otro, lo culpaba en el viento frío, las 17 libras extras en mi espalda, y que no podía dormir una siesta cuando probamos antes en el día. Al final, tal vez no soy un caminante de la noche. Encontramos un lugar plano a lo largo del camino de tierra y pasamos alrededor de las 11 pm.

5
Encontramos algo de sombra bajo este signo

Dormí horriblemente, y me desperté a una mañana fría y un compañero de senderismo que también dormimos mal. Caminamos, tratando de ser positivo hasta que el sol calentó nuestros huesos tanto que derramamos nuestras capas y disfrutamos de la ligera brisa que surgió. Vimos que Fidgit había marcado una estancia abandonada a lo largo de nuestra ruta y planeamos hacerla los 35 kilómetros allí. Cuando nos cerramos en nuestro objetivo, nos dimos cuenta que no parecía tan abandonado como tal vez fue una vez. Llegamos a la «estancia abandonada» y nos dirigimos a una gendarmería, donde uno de los cuatro hombres que allí se encontraban recibió una cálida bienvenida. Nos invitaron a, compartimos su fuego y la cena con nosotros, y establecer colchones en frente de la chimenea para que podamos dormir. Muchas historias eran compartidas, pero yo estaba sobre todo delirantemente cansado y luchando para sentarme en posición vertical, así que no tenía mucha capacidad para mucho más.

6
Una luna llena se levanta cerca de la Gendarmeria

Ambas dormimos bien esa noche, y nos fuimos la mañana siguiente refrescado y nos dirigimos cuesta abajo en la ciudad, sabiendo que tendríamos suficiente agua para llegar allí. Lo hicimos abajo a la pequeña ciudad de Bella Vista y decidimos al campo de la cautela en un lote abandonado y caminamos en la ciudad más grande de Rodeo el día siguiente. Encontramos un pequeño lote lleno de arbustos espinosos y nos situamos en la noche. Nos despertamos la mañana siguiente a temperaturas frescas y nos dirigimos a una gasolinera para calentar y conseguir algunos Internetting hecho – hemos descubierto recientemente que los YPFs de Argentina tienen algunos de los mejores Internet alrededor!

7
Los hombres de la remota gendarmeria y nosotros

En la gasolinera, encontramos a un chico de Minnesota trabajando en su tesis de maestría. Él también era voluntario en un parque nacional cercano, y hablamos con él más que conseguimos cosas logradas. Ha sido un tiempo desde que he hablado en persona con un hablante nativo de Inglés, y me di cuenta a través de hablar con él cuánto había simplificado mi lenguaje y palabras olvidadas. Cuando Fidgit y yo dejamos la gasolinera para llegar a Rodeo, hicimos planes con nuestro nuevo amigo Andy para reunirnos más tarde para cenar. Luego nos reventó nuestras colillas para caminar los 15 kilómetros de Rodeo antes de anochecer, y lo hicimos justo a tiempo! Por desgracia, el paseo de Andy lo recogió super tarde, y no pudimos cenar juntos. Fidgit y yo encontramos un lugar para alojarse en Rodeo, enseguida se duchaba y colapsó en nuestras camas.

8
Camino de tierra caminando, nuetro tramo seco mas largo
Posted in En Español, Her Odyssey, Neon, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Uncategorized
5 Comments
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Comments (5)

  • Rosalia June 4, 2017 at 8:55 pm Reply

    Hi,keep going n discreibing / telling us all about those places / experiencias you both are inIIII

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  • gkendallhughes June 5, 2017 at 6:08 am Reply

    It sounds like you made the right choice to hike this section on the Argentine side. I imagine you would have a much longer drive stretches on the other side of the mountains.

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  • gkendallhughes June 5, 2017 at 6:24 am Reply

    Do you know if Ian accomplished his goal and made it to Alaska?

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  • Cliff Rawley June 7, 2017 at 7:39 am Reply

    What amazing adventures! What kind people you are graced to meet!

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  • Gretchen September 20, 2017 at 2:33 pm Reply

    Is this your Ian? Ian Chappel? https://sites.google.com/site/adventureson2wheels/americas/06

    Googled a few details and it seems like it could be…

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