• Support us on Patreon
Her Odyssey
  • Speaking & Engagements
  • HER ODYSSEY
    • MISSION
    • BIO & ARCHIVES
    • ROUTE RESOURCES
    • FINANCIALS
      • Budget
      • Pay it Forward
      • SHOP
    • PARTNERS
  • EXPEDITION ARCHIVE
  • LIBRARY
Her Odyssey
  • Speaking & Engagements
  • HER ODYSSEY
    • MISSION
    • BIO & ARCHIVES
    • ROUTE RESOURCES
    • FINANCIALS
      • Budget
      • Pay it Forward
      • SHOP
    • PARTNERS
  • EXPEDITION ARCHIVE
  • LIBRARY
June 11, 2017January 19, 2019

Rodeo to Chile Cito

Written by Neon

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

2
Walking along “the windiest lake in Argentina,” or so they say . . .
1
Following the river down to Jachal

Fidgit and I spent a day in Rodeo to work before setting off again. We left as the wind whipped around us in the valley. We walked along the reservoir outside of town and then into the narrow valley that would connect us to the next town. A policeman had warned Fidgit about this stretch of road being very narrow and dangerous, so we were cautious as we wound along the riverside and down. The road was indeed narrow and winding, but every vehicle was being careful along it and most honked encouragement. We spent the night along the river, and in the morning hours, the valley opened up for us. We arrived in the next town shortly after lunch and parked ourselves in the corner of the YPF – an Argentine gas station chain that usually has wifi. It got to be late quickly, and since we still needed to resupply, we decided to stay the night in town. The plan was to resupply and head out the next morning.

It was a good thing we decided to stay, because nearly as soon as we found a place, I was hit with a bout of intestinal distress. Grateful for a bed, I zonked out that night. In the morning, I wasn’t feeling much better, and everything was closed because it was Easter Sunday, so we ended up staying for longer in the town of Jachal. Again, I was grateful because even though my intestines weren’t cooperating, the weather outside was cold, cloudy and rainy.

3
Sunrise along the way
4
The dam looks small; really the canyon is just big.

My intestines and the weather cleared up around the same time, and we were able to continue our journey. We walked on, into some beautiful mountains for a day before coming out and making our way onto Ruta Nacional 40. Getting onto Ruta 40 is something I’ve been hearing about for so long and we are finally there! I was concerned it would be a very busy road. As it turned out, Ruta 40 is a 2-lane highway in a rural area, so the traffic was more, though not enough to endanger us.

Right as we made it to Ruta 40, a young man on a bike came up behind us. He was a Scotsman and had been out for about three months, making his way north. He was going to stop along the Ruta and attempt to get a ride further north. We said our goodbyes and made our way along, enjoying the warm weather until it got too hot; then we made our way to the shade of a nearby tree. As we were semi-dozing waiting for the evening to cool off, the Scotsman, Peter, rolled by again. We talked for a bit before deciding to camp together nearby. We set up camp and chatted for a good while before bed. Fidgit and I figured out that this was only the third time that someone had camped with us on-trail this season, and I very much enjoyed talking bike gear with him that evening.

6
Scenery along the route
5
Looking out from a look out

Fidgit and I parted ways with Peter the next morning, as walking is much slower than biking. Making our way towards the small town of Santa Clara, we were able to get some water from some construction workers. We were running low in the afternoon, so Fidgit hung her trusty ‘AGUA’ sign from her backpack once more. I am thankful these dry stretches have been along traveled roads so we don’t have to carry more than two days of water at a time. We flew the sign as our water dwindled, and we pushed for a big kilometer-age day.

As early evening settled in, two people stopped in quick succession. One car stopped and turned around to give us water, smiling and wishing us luck. The other vehicle that stopped was a truck marked ‘explosives’ on the back – the driver got out and put water and snacks on the side of the road, telling Fidgit that he had seen us on his way past earlier. Water AND snacks?! What amazing people inhabit this earth! Boosted again by the kindness of strangers, I was able to walk a bit into the night to complete our first 40 kilometer day this season. It also happened to be day 300 of our entire trip, so there was a lot to celebrate. I celebrated by eating dinner and falling fast asleep.

I was relieved not to be sore the next morning, and we walked into and through the small pueblo of Santa Clara quickly. We stopped in the nearby YPF for a bit, then walked on after loading up on water for the next 40 kilometers. On our way towards Villa Union, we passed between some mountains that I had been watching get closer for a few days. The red rocks and sandstone had me frequently thinking of my home in Utah. It is amazing how places so far from each other can look so similar.

7
We made a friend and he camped with us for the night! Peter is a biking Scotman, and spent a night in the desert with us.

We camped in a wash, out of view from the vehicles passing, and enjoyed a cooler evening among the red rocks. In the morning, we watched the rocks light up as the sun rose, before we walked on into Villa Union which was having a power outage. It was the second power outage we had heard of this section, and it didn’t seem like an unusual thing, so we’ll see if it continues. The power was back on within a couple of hours, so Fidgit and I were able to find a place to stay for the night. Tired from a full day of walking and being exposed to the sun, I showered and fell into a deep sleep quickly after.

8
Dinner time!

We left Villa Union and again walked into a chunk of mountains after crossing the valley floor for half a day. It seems around here the only place that water stays is in the mountains. The rest of our walking is quite arid. In the elevation and terrain change, we found a cool wash to follow instead of the road. We were so happy to be not along the road, and plunged in head first. Fidgit found some quicksand, so we were more careful after that, but to be immersed back in nature among the sandstone and dirt was reinvigorating.

We found our way back onto the road in the morning, and went up to a 2,000 meter pass and then down into the valley that held the small town of Sanogasta. At our lunch break, we figured out that we could get into town that evening, resupply and camp somewhere north of town. So that’s exactly what we did, and as a result, ended up doing another 40 kilometer day. We also found our way through the unofficial town dump before camping nearby. I laid my weary body down and was soon fast asleep.

9
Trail magic of water and snacks!

We awoke the next morning to soaked sleeping bags and threw them over our packs to dry in the morning air as we walked. With road walking, we don’t have to be as concerned with our bags snagging on branches and tearing as they dry. The cool morning warmed up quickly as we made our way to another mountain pass. Thankfully as we crested the pass, a breeze came up and cooled us for the walk down to the largest town we’ve seen in a while – Chilecito.

We meandered into town late afternoon and weary from the sun exposure as well as a 30 kilometer (so far) day. After walking a few kilometers into the center of town, we found a small hostel and posted up for the night. We left town the next day after properly filling up on empanadas.

10
“Pack it in, pack it out” also applies to trail magic. Got Water?
11
A small band of parrots can make a surprising amount of noise.
12
Fidgit and the wavy mountain

Click here to go directly to Neon’s blog



Rodeo a Chilecito

Escrito por Neon

2
Caminando por “el lago mas ventoso de Argentina”, O eso dicen . . .
1
Siguiendo el rio hasta Jachal

Fidgit y yo pasamos un día en Rodeo para trabajar antes de partir de nuevo. Nos fuimos como el viento azotado alrededor de nosotros en el valle. Caminamos a lo largo del embalse fuera de la ciudad y luego en el estrecho valle que nos conectaría a la próxima ciudad. Un policía había advertido a Fidgit que este tramo de carretera era muy estrecho y peligroso, así que fuimos cautelosas mientras nos arrastramos por la orilla del río y hacia abajo. El camino era en realidad estrecho y sinuoso, pero cada vehículo estaba siendo cuidadoso a lo largo de él y la mayoría de bufones de estímulo. Pasamos la noche a lo largo del río, y en las horas de la mañana, el valle se abrió para nosotros. Llegamos a la siguiente ciudad poco después del almuerzo y nos aparcamos en la esquina de la YPF – una cadena de gasolinera argentina que normalmente tiene wifi. Llegó a ser tarde rápidamente, y ya que todavía necesitábamos reabastecimiento, decidimos quedarnos la noche en la ciudad. El plan era re abastecer y salir a la mañana siguiente.

Fue una buena cosa que decidimos quedarnos, porque casi tan pronto como encontramos un lugar, me golpearon con un ataque de angustia intestinal. Agradecido por una cama, salí esa noche. Por la mañana, no me sentía mucho mejor, y todo estaba cerrado porque era Domingo de Pascua, así que terminamos quedándonos más tiempo en la ciudad de Jachal. Una vez más, estaba agradecido porque a pesar de que mis intestinos no estaban cooperando, el tiempo fuera era frío, nublado y lluvioso.

3
Amanecer a lo largo del camino
4
La represa es pequena, realmente el canon es solo grande

Mis intestinos y el clima se aclararon alrededor del mismo tiempo, y pudimos continuar nuestro viaje. Caminamos en unas hermosas montañas por un día antes de salir y hacer nuestro camino a Ruta Nacional 40. Subiendo a Ruta 40 es algo que he estado oyendo durante tanto tiempo y finalmente estamos allí! Me preocupaba que sería una calle muy transitada. Cómo resultó, Ruta 40 es una autopista de 2 carriles en una zona rural, por lo que el tráfico era más, aunque no lo suficiente como para ponernos en peligro.

Justo cuando llegamos a la Ruta 40, un joven con una bicicleta subió detrás de nosotros. Era un escocés y había estado fuera por cerca de tres meses, haciendo su manera al norte. Iba a detenerse a lo largo de la Ruta y tratar de conseguir un viaje más al norte. Nos despedimos e hicimos nuestro camino, disfrutando del clima cálido hasta que se puso demasiado caliente; Luego nos dirigimos a la sombra de un árbol cercano. Mientras estábamos casi dormitando esperando que la noche se enfriara, el escocés, Peter, volvió a rodar. Hablamos un poco antes de decidimos acampar juntos cerca. Instalamos el campamento y charlamos un buen rato antes de acostarnos. Fidgit y yo supimos que esta era sólo la tercera vez que alguien había acampado con nosotros en esta temporada, y disfruté muchísimo con el equipo de hablar con él esa noche.

6
Paisaje a lo largo de la ruta
5
Mirando desde una mirada hacia fuera

Fidgit y yo nos separamos con Peter la mañana siguiente, ya que caminar es mucho más lento que andar en bicicleta. Haciendo nuestro camino hacia la pequeña ciudad de Santa Clara, pudimos conseguir un poco de agua de algunos trabajadores de la construcción. Estábamos corriendo bajo por la tarde, así que Fidgit colgó su señal de “AGUA” de su mochila una vez más. Estoy agradecido de que estos tramos secos hayan estado a lo largo de carreteras recorridas por lo que no tenemos que llevar más de dos días de agua a la vez. Volamos el letrero mientras nuestro agua disminuye, y empujamos por un día de gran kilómetro.

Cuando la noche se estableció, dos personas se detuvieron en rápida sucesión. Un coche se detuvo y dio la vuelta para darnos agua, sonriendo y deseándonos suerte. El otro vehículo que se detuvo fue un camión marcado con “explosivos” en la parte de atrás – el conductor salió y puso agua y aperitivos en el lado de la carretera, diciéndole a Fidgit que nos había visto en su camino pasado más temprano. Agua y aperitivos ?! ¡Qué gente increíble habitan esta tierra! Impulsado de nuevo por la amabilidad de los extraños, pude caminar un poco en la noche para completar nuestro primer día de 40 kilómetros esta temporada. También pasó a ser 300 días de nuestro viaje entero, así que había mucho que celebrar. Yo celebraba comiendo la cena y quedándome profundamente dormido.

Me sentí aliviada de no dolerme a la mañana siguiente, entramos por el pequeño pueblo de Santa Clara rápidamente. Nos detuvimos en el cercano YPF un poco, luego caminamos después de cargar en el agua para los próximos 40 kilómetros. En nuestro camino hacia Villa Unión, pasamos entre algunas montañas que había estado viendo acercarse por unos días. Las rocas rojas y la piedra arenisca me hacían pensar frecuentemente en mi hogar en Utah. Es sorprendente cómo los lugares tan lejos uno del otro pueden parecer tan similares.

7
HIcimos un amigo y el acamparon con nosotros para la noche! Peter es un ciclista, y paso una noche en el desierto con nosotros.

Acampamos en un lavado, fuera de la vista de los vehículos que pasaban, y disfrutamos de una tarde más fresca entre las rocas rojas. Por la mañana, vimos las rocas encender como el sol se levantó, antes de que caminamos encendido en la unión de la Villa que estaba teniendo un apagón. Fue el segundo apagón que habíamos escuchado de esta sección, y no parecía una cosa inusual, así que veremos si continúa. El poder estaba de vuelta en un par de horas, así que Fidgit y yo pudimos encontrar un lugar para pasar la noche. Cansado de un día entero de caminar y de ser expuesto al sol, me duché y caí en un sueño profundo rápidamente después.

8
La cena

Dejamos Villa Unión y de nuevo entramos en un pedazo de montañas después de cruzar el piso del valle por medio día. Parece que aquí el único lugar que el agua permanece es en las montañas. El resto de nuestra caminata es bastante árido. En la elevación y el cambio de terreno, encontramos un lavado fresco para seguir en lugar de la carretera. Estábamos muy contentos de no estar en el camino, y nos sumergimos en la cabeza primero. Fidgit encontró algunas arenas movedizas, así que fuimos más cuidadosos después de eso, pero estar inmerso en la naturaleza entre la piedra arenisca y la suciedad estaba revitalizando.

Encontramos nuestro camino de regreso a la carretera por la mañana, y subimos a un paso de 2.000 metros y luego bajamos al valle que sostenía la pequeña ciudad de Sanogasta. En nuestra hora de almuerzo, nos dimos cuenta de que podíamos llegar a la ciudad esa noche, reabastecimiento y campamento en algún lugar al norte de la ciudad. Así que eso es exactamente lo que hicimos, y como resultado, terminamos haciendo otro día de 40 kilómetros. También encontramos nuestro camino a través del vertedero no oficial de la ciudad antes de acampar cerca. Dejé mi cuerpo cansado y pronto dormí rápidamente.

9
Magia del camino con agua y aperitivos!

Nos despertamos la mañana siguiente a sacos de dormir empapados y tiró ellos sobre nuestros paquetes para secar en el aire de la mañana como caminamos. Con el caminar de la carretera, no tenemos que estar tan preocupados con nuestras bolsas enganchadas en las ramas y desgarrantes mientras se secan. La mañana fría se calienta rápidamente mientras nos dirigimos a otro paso de montaña. Afortunadamente como nos crested el paso, una brisa subió y nos refresca para el paseo a la ciudad más grande que hemos visto en un tiempo – Chilecito.

Nos meandered en la ciudad tarde y cansado de la exposición al sol, así como un 30 kilómetros (hasta ahora) día. Después de caminar unos pocos kilómetros en el centro de la ciudad, encontramos un pequeño hostal y publicado para la noche. Dejamos la ciudad al día siguiente después de llenar adecuadamente en empanadas.

10
Empaquetelo, embalarlo hacia fuera tambien se aplica a la magia del rastro – tienes aqua?
11
Una pequena banda de loros puede hacer una cantidad sorprendente de ruido
12
Fidgt y la montana ondulada

 

Posted in En Español, Her Odyssey, Neon, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Uncategorized
4 Comments
Her Odyssey
  • Facebook
  • Twitter

Post navigation

   Barreal to Rodeo
Gear Lists: 4 International Backpacking Teams   

You may also like

THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AMERICAS

Continue Reading

Aftermath, Reverse Culture Shock & Reintegration

Continue Reading

Comments (4)

  • gkendallhughes June 11, 2017 at 10:19 pm Reply

    Congratulations on bagging several 40 km days. Hopefully the kindness of motorists may be enough to help you get through this dry section of the journey.

    Loading...
  • Aaren June 12, 2017 at 7:56 pm Reply

    I love that wavy mountain pic. Reminds me of a couple places where I’ve seen such upheaval and pressure.

    Loading...
  • Rosalia June 13, 2017 at 11:07 pm Reply

    Hi Girls, I enjoyed reading your “experiencias” and somehow walked along with you. Many thanks fr sharing it with us. I also have heard so much abt Ruta 40, and hopefully, one day can I be no it. GPS be with you both!

    Loading...
  • cliff rawley June 14, 2017 at 1:50 pm Reply

    Congratulations on the accomplishment of walking now for over 300 days! The people there are so gracious to leave you water and snacks on the road side! We are thankful that your sickness passed quickly in a few days. We marvel that you are able to make new friends where ever the journey takes you.

    Loading...

Leave a ReplyCancel reply

we are

Her Odyssey

On this venture of over 20,000 miles, we are traveling the length of the Americas by non-motorized means, connecting stories of the land and its inhabitants.

follow her odyssey

Enter your email to subscribe to our posts and latest news

Join 6,928 other subscribers

Watch us!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBYqqSEF9JM

Categories

Backpacking Bikepacking Colorado Community En Español Fidgit Her Odyssey Herstory International Travel Neon Patagonia Thru-Hike Planning Thru-hike Uncategorized

_herodyssey_

#SlowTravel 👣 22,000+ #humanpowered miles, connecting stories from Patagonia to the Arctic 🛶🚲 🌎 #womenled #sponsoredathlete

@nolsedu WFR recertification @nolsedu WFR recertification
Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' 2023 on the North Fork American River was a blast!

Big gratitude to all the folks and brands out there making it happen!
A few who've buoyed my water dabbling:
 @alpacka_raft @hyperlite_mountain_gear @sawyerproducts @astralfootwear @sweetprotection
A healer told me to go find big rocks. Loved ones A healer told me to go find big rocks. 
Loved ones've been telling me to seek joy. 
I've been craving time in water.

So gathered some rockstars, and in we went.
I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @ I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @aldhawest Gathering! Sharing stories and precepts of Slow Travel, distilled from Her Odyssey and a life abroad. 🌎

Bringing it first to the thru-hiking community who expand horizons and honor markers such as the prestigious Triple Crown Ceremony, will make for a lively community event! You should probably follow their page to keep up as they announce the rich variety of presenters I've been hearing whispers about. 
🤫 📣

Bring laughter, curiosity, and what you've learned from the miles in between.
Can't wait to see you there! 
 
~Fidgit 💚 
 
#herodyssey #slowtravel #aldhawest #hikertrash
1/5 *THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AME 1/5
*THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AMERICAS: 
MARGUERITE GEIST* 

To conclude this digital account of Her Odyssey, I would like to share the earliest record I’ve found of a modern person walking the length of the Americas. Circa ~1920S

#herodyssey #acrosstheamericas #humanpowered #slowtravel #outdoorwomen #womenofadventure #womenwhoexplore #selfpropelled #herstory #empowerher #nature #optoutside #hiking #womenwhohike #outdoors #everythinglessmatters #livefeetfirst #thermaresting #garmininstinct #inreachmini #garminconnect #garmininreach #garminexplore #forceofnature #travelphotography #femmetravel #passionpassport #naturephotography
To all the mothers and nurturers; recognized, over To all the mothers and nurturers; recognized, overlooked, and missed,
🌲 HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY💐

Words by @drsuzannesimard
#findingthemothertree

". . .  we know Mother Trees can truly nurture their offspring. Douglas firs, it turns out, recognize their kin and distinguish them from other families and different species. They communicate and send carbon, the building block of life, not just to the mycorrhizas of their kin but to other members of the community. To help keep it whole. They appear to relate to their offspring as do mothers passing their best recipes to their daughters. Conveying their life energy, their wisdom, to carry life forward." 

 -From the book 'Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest'

I will always treasure hiking into Machu Picchu with my mom in 2017. 💚
#herodyssey 

Bonus young mom/childhood #throwbackpic of the Hughes (Fidgít's  fam)
Follow on Instagram

Join our journey!

Join 6,928 other subscribers

Most popular tags

adventure bikepacking Continental Divide Trail Her Odyssey Hiking Hyperlite Mountain Gear MExico Panama Patagonia sea kayaking Thru-hike Thru-hiking Travel Women

© Her Odyssey 2019
%d