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  • Speaking & Engagements
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January 14, 2018January 19, 2019

Macusani to Pisac

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

Written by Neon

Fidgit and I weren’t feeling great leaving Macusani, though that had become the norm. Our bodies were breaking down, our nutritional needs were not being met in this area, and the attempted breaks were no longer restful. At this point, we had been walking through South America for nearly a year, walking our way step by step toward our season’s end goal: Cusco, Peru. We had made it to Peru, and parts of our trips were becoming more arduous as we closed in on our goal. We were making it, though, and continued to try and focus on the positive while acknowledging the rest of what we were experiencing.

So walking out of Macusani was difficult, though I was bolstered by the knowledge that we were closing in on a goal, which can sometimes be a great motivator. Especially if you’re closing in on the goal ahead of schedule, which we were! I had taken to the ritual of crossing off each town and doing the math every day to count down our kilometer-age. That means I had some idea of what we had left, not anything definite because Fidgit had made an educated guess on our distances, and sometimes/most times we didn’t follow our route to a T.

We walked for a couple days- honestly, they ran together at this point- and went through towns regularly. We thought the towns along this section would be small, and we were correct. We had planned accordingly and stocked up on items you usually cannot find in small towns: oats, drink mixes, salami. etc. I tried to find something enjoyable in each day, and the changing terrain helped with that.

We made our way across some beautiful landscapes and skirted some amazing mountains, though there was one mountain in particular that I was waiting for- Nevado Ausangate. I had read that the Inca believed this mountain to be the birthplace of llamas, and it was also the highest peak in the Cusco region. As we neared Ausangate, I began checking to see if each snow-covered peak we passed was the mountain. A few days after this continual checking began, I finally saw the majestic, glacier drenched Cerro Ausangate. It was a view I savored as we walked around the western side of the peak. For three days we navigated around the massif and found our way to the small town of Ocongate. To me, reaching and then passing Nevado Ausangate was our last marker before we reached Pisac and the potential end of our season. The mountain was not only beautiful in its lore and aesthetic, it was also a sight for sore eyes in this worn-through adventurer’s mind.

From Ocongate, I just felt like I was on auto-pilot, with “Just get to Pisac” being my mantra. There wasn’t energy left for much other than one foot in front of the other through the next few towns. Fidgit and I weren’t on good terms as we crested our last pass and descended towards the Sacred Valley though as we neared Pisac, I found a small reserve I didn’t know I had to make it up and then down through some amazing Incan ruins. At the end of a very long day of mostly descent, Fidgit and I stumbled into Pisac, Peru.

We had made it at last to somewhere that had at one point just been a spot on Google Earth Pro, and was now a real, tangible place! The couple of days we spent in Pisac were the first in a long time that we were both more relaxed and able to take care of ourselves. I headed into Cusco with renewed energy.

P1010212
On our way down again
P1010224
Everything is wearing thin/through.
P1010246
Another day, another shrine at another pass
P1010294
Are you Ausangate?
P1010300
Full Moon Rising
P1010310
Are you Ausangate?
P1010327
Are you Ausangate?
P1010349
Are you Ausangate?
P1010378
The ‘wildlife’ was riveted
P1010406
And it snowed
P1010414
Are you Ausangate?
P1010431
And then it lightning snowed! These guys are showing off their coat of snow from the previous day’s multi-hour lightning AND snow storm.
P1010434
These lovely gentlemen allowed us shelter in their storage room during the storm
P1010471
Are you Ausangate?
P1010554
We made it to another mountain- the colors are so vibrant!
P1010578
YOU ARE AUSANGATE!
P1010606
Look at that drape-age
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Bye for now, mountains.
P1010651
Finding our way through town
P1010684
Fidgit walking over our last pass.
P1010704
And down we go into the Sacred Valley
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Oh, hello Andenes
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We’re going the right way!
P1010759
Hello, beautiful!

Click here to visit Neon’s blog page directly!


Macusani a Pisac

Escrito por Neon
Traduccion por Henry Tovar

Fidgit y yo no nos sentíamos bien dejando a Macusani, aunque eso se había convertido en la norma. Nuestros cuerpos se descomponían, nuestras necesidades nutricionales no se satisfacían en esta área, y los intentos de descanso ya no eran reparadores. En este punto, hemos estado caminando por Sudamérica por casi un año, caminando paso a paso hacia el objetivo final de nuestra temporada: Cusco, Perú. Habíamos llegado a Perú, y algunas partes de nuestros viajes eran cada vez más arduas a medida que nos acercábamos a nuestra meta. Sin embargo, lo estábamos logrando y seguimos intentando centrarnos en lo positivo, al mismo tiempo que reconocíamos el resto de lo que estábamos experimentando.

Así que salir de Macusani fue difícil, aunque me fortaleció el conocimiento de que estábamos acercándonos a un objetivo, lo que a veces puede ser un gran motivador. ¡Especialmente si te estás acercando al objetivo antes de lo previsto, que éramos! Había tomado el ritual de tachar cada ciudad y hacer los cálculos todos los días para contar nuestro kilometraje de edad. Eso significa que tenía una idea de lo que nos quedaba, no algo definitivo porque Fidgit había adivinado bien nuestras distancias, y algunas veces / la mayoría de las veces no seguíamos nuestra ruta hacia una T.
Caminamos por un par de días, honestamente, corrieron juntos en este punto, y recorrimos ciudades regularmente. Pensamos que las ciudades a lo largo de esta sección serían pequeñas, y estábamos en lo cierto. Habíamos planeado en consecuencia y abastecido de artículos que generalmente no se pueden encontrar en las ciudades pequeñas: avena, mezclas de bebidas, salami. etc. Intenté encontrar algo agradable cada día, y el terreno cambiante me ayudó con eso.

Caminamos a través de hermosos paisajes y bordeamos algunas montañas increíbles, aunque había una montaña en particular que estaba esperando: Nevado Ausangate. Había leído que los Incas creían que esta montaña era el lugar de nacimiento de las llamas, y que también era el pico más alto en la región de Cusco. Cuando nos acercabamos a Ausangate, comencé a verificar si cada pico cubierto de nieve que pasamos era la montaña. Unos días después de que comenzaran las constantes revisiones, finalmente vi el majestuoso Glaciar Ausangate, bañado por los glaciares. Era una vista que saboree mientras caminábamos por el lado oeste de la cima. Durante tres días navegamos alrededor del macizo y encontramos nuestro camino hacia el pequeño pueblo de Ocongate. Para mí, alcanzar y luego pasar Nevado Ausangate fue nuestro último marcador antes de llegar a Pisac y el posible final de nuestra temporada. La montaña no solo era hermosa en su tradición y estética, también era un espectáculo para los ojos doloridos en la mente de este aventurero desgastado.

Desde Ocongate, simplemente sentí que estaba en piloto automático, con “Solo llegar a Pisac” siendo mi mantra. No quedaba energía para mucho más que un pie frente al otro a través de las siguientes ciudades. Fidgit y yo no estábamos en buenos términos cuando coronamos nuestro último pase y descendimos hacia el Valle Sagrado. Sin embargo, cuando nos acercabamos a Pisac, encontré una pequeña reserva que no sabía que tenía que recuperar y luego bajar por un increíble Incan. restos. Al final de un día muy largo de descenso en su mayoría, Fidgit y yo tropezamos con Pisac, Perú.
Finalmente llegamos a un lugar que en algún momento había sido un lugar en Google Earth Pro, ¡y ahora era un lugar real y tangible! Los dos días que pasamos en Pisac fueron los primeros en mucho tiempo en que los dos estábamos más relajados y pudimos cuidarnos solas. Me dirigí al Cusco con energía renovada.

En nuestro camino de nuevoTodo se está desgastando / a través.Otro día, otro santuario en otro paseEres tu Ausangate?Full Moon RisingEres tu Ausangate?Eres tu Ausangate?Eres tu Ausangate?La ‘vida silvestre’ estaba remachaday nevoEres tu Ausangate?Y luego cayó un rayo de nieve! Estos muchachos están mostrando su capa de nieve del relámpago de varias horas del día anterior Y tormenta de nieve.Estos encantadores caballeros nos permitieron refugiarnos en su trastero durante la tormentaEres tu Ausangate?Logramos llegar a otra montaña: los colores son tan vibrantes!TU ERES AUSANGATE!Mira ese drapeadoAdios por ahora, Montanas.Encontrar nuestro camino a través de la ciudadFíjate caminando sobre tu último paso.Y abajo vamos al Valle SagradoOh, hola Andenes/caption]

P1010212
En nuestro camino de nuevo
P1010224
Todo se esta desgastando / a traves
P1010246
Otro dia, otro santuario en otro pase
P1010294
Eres tu Ausangate?
P1010300
Full Moon Rising
P1010310
Eres tu Ausangate?
P1010327
Eres tu Ausangate?
P1010349
Eres tu Ausangate?
P1010378
La ‘vida silvestre’ estaba remachada
P1010406
Y nevo
P1010414
Eres tu Ausangate?
P1010431
Luego cayo un rayo de nieve! Estos muchachos estan mostrando su capa de nieve del relampago de varias horas del dia anterior y tormenta de nieve
P1010434
Estos encantadores caballeros nos permitieron refugiarnos en su trastero durante la tormenta
P1010471
Eres tu Ausangante?
P1010554
Logramos llegar a otra montana: los colores son tan vibrantes
P1010578
TU ERES AUSANGATE!
P1010606
Mira ese drapeado
P1010640
Adios por ahora, Montanas.
P1010651
Encontrar nuestro camino a traves de la ciudad
P1010684
Fidgit caminando sobre tu ultimo paso
P1010704
Y abajo vamos al Valle Sagrado
P1010734
Oh, hola Andenes
P1010738
Vamos por el camino correcto!
P1010759
Hello, Hermosa!

Click here to visit Neon’s blog page directly!

Posted in En Español, Her Odyssey, Neon, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Qhapaq Nan
Tagged Ausangate, cusco, Inca, llama, Macusani, Peru, Thru-hiking, thru-hiking team, Travel, travel-weary
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Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' 2023 on the North Fork American River was a blast!

Big gratitude to all the folks and brands out there making it happen!
A few who've buoyed my water dabbling:
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A healer told me to go find big rocks. Loved ones A healer told me to go find big rocks. 
Loved ones've been telling me to seek joy. 
I've been craving time in water.

So gathered some rockstars, and in we went.
I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @ I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @aldhawest Gathering! Sharing stories and precepts of Slow Travel, distilled from Her Odyssey and a life abroad. 🌎

Bringing it first to the thru-hiking community who expand horizons and honor markers such as the prestigious Triple Crown Ceremony, will make for a lively community event! You should probably follow their page to keep up as they announce the rich variety of presenters I've been hearing whispers about. 
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Can't wait to see you there! 
 
~Fidgit 💚 
 
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1/5 *THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AME 1/5
*THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AMERICAS: 
MARGUERITE GEIST* 

To conclude this digital account of Her Odyssey, I would like to share the earliest record I’ve found of a modern person walking the length of the Americas. Circa ~1920S

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Words by @drsuzannesimard
#findingthemothertree

". . .  we know Mother Trees can truly nurture their offspring. Douglas firs, it turns out, recognize their kin and distinguish them from other families and different species. They communicate and send carbon, the building block of life, not just to the mycorrhizas of their kin but to other members of the community. To help keep it whole. They appear to relate to their offspring as do mothers passing their best recipes to their daughters. Conveying their life energy, their wisdom, to carry life forward." 

 -From the book 'Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest'

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Bonus young mom/childhood #throwbackpic of the Hughes (Fidgít's  fam)
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