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  • Speaking & Engagements
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July 22, 2018January 19, 2019

A Reminder to Proceed with Care

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

Written by Fidgit

We were sat on a curb, it was 9 am but already hot enough to make ice cream a viable after-breakfast option. We were waiting and debating, as we usually are during the heat and when an ice cream cooler is nearby. Today’s topics revolved around the latest news articles coming out of Colombia.

I have no illusions about what we are up against regarding that country. While the FARC signed a peace treaty in 2016, splinter cells are active everywhere, particularly along the Ecuadorian border, kidnapping and murdering. Streams of desperate Venezuelans are pouring across every border. Currently a dam is failing, and last year flooding ripped out an entire town.

Colombia has been on my radar since before we started walking, and I have kept an eye on it since the middle of nowhere northern Argentina, when a kite surfing couple pulled over their small RV when they saw me walking. We took a mate together and discussed the scope of what lay ahead of Neon and me.

He had been to Colombia and gave salient advice:
“If you are approached by a person dressed as police, check their shoes, the real police wear black leather boots. If they have on rubber boots or anything else, do not trust them or give them your ID.”

My two compatriots and a few on my advisory board who have walked through Colombia in recent years, Joey and Justin, did so under the guise of being homeless men. As women, that option is not a safeguard. So, we were sat on the street corner, beginning the discussion of our options for navigating the dangers.

As we did, a man walked over and sat far too close to me. He leaned in, the smell of stale beer and cigarettes hung heavy around him. We generally deal with these individuals by pretending not to speak Spanish.
This did not allay his advances. He kept asking if I spoke Spanish, insisting.
I just smiled, said “hola” then just said “gracias” to his every phrase.

I felt uncomfortable about his proximity. Then he gestured at my hip-belt pocket, “that is where you keep your money, isn’t it?”
“No plata,” [No money] I replied.
“Oh yes, you have money. I know you do. If not, you wouldn’t be here. I bet you keep it in that pocket.”

Already this had gone further than I should have allowed it but I was in a false sense of security, also, I honestly had no money for him to take anyway, so I stuck my hand out in a gesture and said, “you give me money?”
“No, you have money,” he leered.
I felt that walking away at this moment would betray something, so I continued pretending not to know Spanish.

He turned to another man next to him, exasperated, “They don’t speak any Spanish, she doesn’t understand a thing.”
“Oh no, she speaks perfect Spanish, I head her speaking to the shop owner last night,” the other man replied.

While they talked, I told Neon my impression and we quickly walked away.

Overall, the whole interaction felt gross, and unsafe. We have them often enough and with each round become more confident in extracting ourselves. Ever since that old man grabbed me and would not let go in Villa O’Higgins, then later the other villagers told me they had found a girl tied up in his house, I have given myself permission to be ruder than I ever thought permissible during my upbringing.

I realized, this particular old creep was merely a precursor to what may well lie ahead and as we plan our options, to consider interactions like these, standard.

Some lessons I took away:
-Walk away, immediately. Heck, don’t even let them get close.
-Maintain your story line consistently throughout. Up until now I have been fine with simply not speaking Spanish when it is convenient, but trusting the women, chatting amiably, only with groups of men am I suddenly mute.
That will not work.
-Stay close together. Even as Neon and I currently work to create space from one another to preserve our sanity, we will have to be gemelas [twins] through Colombia.

Dealing with male aggression is not something I write about much but is something we deal with almost daily. Be it a construction crew cat calling, a taxi driver asking if I will marry him so he can enter the US, a pervert saying he can smell my panties while smacking his lips, a shop owner asking if I miss sex with my (made up) boyfriend, a toothless man on a motorcycle blowing a kiss, or a border guard pressing about why I’m not married, it is an almost constant barrage of what I am coming to identify as “sexual harassment.”

This is not to say all men behave like this. We have met and been helped by a number of honorable and genteel men along the way and certainly our journey is supported and empowered by many very good men all around the world (THANK YOU).

What I am saying is, in my experience of interactions along this hike, the trustworthy ones are a minority.  These negative exchanges account for a good number of our interactions and has made me skittish and my first reaction to men has become guarded and defensive.

I am training myself to approach an interaction factoring for the worst possible outcome.
And, I resent this.
It is a wedge to the honest connection I came down here seeking to engender, but safety has to be a top priority for us and one which becomes all the more pressing in the months ahead.


Un recordatorio para proceder con cuidado

Traduccion por Henry Tovar

Escrito por Fidgit

Estábamos sentados en una acera, eran las 9 a.m. pero ya estábamos lo suficientemente calientes como para hacer que el helado fuera una opción viable después del desayuno. Estábamos esperando y debatiendo, como solemos hacer durante el calor y cuando hay una nevera de helados cerca. Los temas de hoy giran en torno a las últimas noticias que salen de Colombia.

No me hago ilusiones sobre lo que enfrentamos con respecto a ese país. Mientras las FARC firmaron un tratado de paz en 2016, las células disidentes están activas en todas partes, particularmente a lo largo de la frontera ecuatoriana, secuestros y asesinatos. Corrientes de venezolanos desesperados están llegando a cada frontera. Actualmente una presa está fallando, y el año pasado las inundaciones arrasaron una ciudad entera.

Colombia ha estado en mi radar desde antes de que empezáramos a caminar, y lo he estado vigilando desde el medio del norte argentino, cuando una pareja de kitesurf detuvo su pequeño RV cuando me vieron caminar. Tomamos una pareja y discutimos el alcance de lo que nos esperaba a Neon y a mí.

Él había estado en Colombia y dio consejos sobresalientes:
“Si una persona vestida de policía se acerca a ti, revisa sus zapatos, la policía real usa botas de cuero negro. Si tienen botas de goma o cualquier otra cosa, no confíes en ellos ni les des tu identificación”.

Mis dos compatriotas y algunos en mi consejo asesor que han caminado por Colombia en los últimos años, Joey y Justin, lo hicieron con el pretexto de ser hombres sin hogar. Como mujeres, esa opción no es una salvaguardia. Entonces, estábamos sentados en la esquina de la calle, comenzando la discusión de nuestras opciones para navegar por los peligros.

Cuando lo hicimos, un hombre se acercó y se sentó demasiado cerca de mí. Se inclinó, el olor a cerveza rancia y cigarrillos colgaba pesado a su alrededor. Generalmente tratamos con estas personas fingiendo no hablar español.
Esto no disipó sus avances. Siguió preguntando si yo hablaba español, insistiendo.

Solo sonreí, dije “hola” y luego dije “gracias” a cada una de sus frases.
Me sentí incómoda por su proximidad. Luego hizo un gesto hacia el bolsillo de mi cinturón de cadera, “ahí es donde guardas tu dinero, ¿no es así?”
“No plata”, [Sin dinero], respondí.
“Oh, sí, tienes dinero. Sé que lo haces. Si no, no estarías aquí. Apuesto a que lo tienes en ese bolsillo”.

Ya esto había ido más allá de lo que debería haberlo permitido, pero tenía una falsa sensación de seguridad. Además, sinceramente, no tenía dinero para él, así que estiré la mano en un gesto y dije: “usted me da”. ¿dinero?”
“No, tienes dinero”, dijo con la mirada.
Sentí que irme en este momento traicionaría algo, así que seguí fingiendo no saber español.

Se volvió hacia otro hombre junto a él, exasperado, “No hablan español, ella no entiende nada”.
“Oh, no, ella habla un español perfecto, la dirijo hablando con el dueño de la tienda anoche”, respondió el otro hombre.

Mientras hablaban, le conté a Neon mi impresión y nos marchamos rápidamente.

En general, toda la interacción se sintió asquerosa e insegura. Los tenemos con bastante frecuencia y con cada ronda confiamos más en extraernos a nosotros mismas. Desde que ese anciano me agarró y no me soltó en Villa O’Higgins, luego los otros aldeanos me dijeron que habían encontrado a una chica atada en su casa, me he dado permiso para ser más rudo de lo que alguna vez pensé que era permisible.

Me di cuenta de que este particular y viejo raro no era más que un precursor de lo que bien podría estar por venir y, mientras planificamos nuestras opciones, considerar interacciones como estas, estándar.

Algunas lecciones que aprendí:
– Aléjate, de inmediato. Diablos, ni siquiera les dejes acercarse.
-Mantenga su línea de historia consistentemente durante todo el proceso. Hasta ahora he estado bien simplemente sin hablar español cuando es conveniente, pero confiando en las mujeres, charlando amablemente, solo con grupos de hombres, de repente me callo.
Eso no funcionará.
-Mantenernos cerca la una de la otra. Incluso mientras Neón y yo trabajamos para crear espacio entre nosotras para preservar nuestra cordura, tendremos que ser gemelas a través de Colombia.

Lidiar con la agresión masculina no es algo sobre lo que escriba mucho, pero es algo con lo que lidiamos casi a diario. Ya sea un gato de la construcción llamándome, un taxista preguntándome si me casaré con él para poder ingresar a los EE. UU., Un pervertido que dice que puede oler mis bragas mientras se pega los labios, el dueño de una tienda me pregunta si extraño el sexo ) novio, un hombre desdentado en una motocicleta que sopla un beso, o un guardia fronterizo presionando sobre por qué no estoy casado, es una andanada casi constante de lo que estoy llegando a identificar como “acoso sexual”.

Esto no quiere decir que todos los hombres se comporten así. Nos hemos encontrado y hemos sido ayudados por una cantidad de hombres honorables y distinguidos a lo largo del camino y ciertamente nuestro viaje es apoyado y fortalecido por muchos hombres muy buenos en todo el mundo (GRACIAS).

Lo que estoy diciendo es que, en mi experiencia de interacciones a lo largo de esta caminata, los confiables son una minoría. Estos intercambios negativos explican un buen número de nuestras interacciones y me han asustado y mi primera reacción ante los hombres se ha vuelto cautelosa y defensiva.

Me estoy entrenando para abordar un factorización de interacción para el peor resultado posible.
Y, me molesta esto.

Es una cuña de la conexión honesta que vine a buscar aquí para engendrar, pero la seguridad tiene que ser una prioridad para nosotros y una que se vuelve aún más urgente en los próximos meses.

Posted in En Español, Fidgit, Her Odyssey, International Travel, Women's Empowerment
Tagged Colombia, confronting harassment, harassment in South America, my body my business, planning for harassment, sexual harassment
6 Comments
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Comments (6)

  • benjamindelrio July 22, 2018 at 5:16 pm Reply

    Stay safe, trust that little voice, the almost indetectible feeling. The more you do, the better you become at acting on its wisdom. Cuidado chicas.

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  • Tim Paynter July 22, 2018 at 11:13 pm Reply

    It is always disturbing to hear men acting like that. Yuk!

    You and I talked about Panama and Colombia. After all the concern I think you will manage well. Both of you have figured out how to handle yourselves artfully despite being around some sketchy people. Most people are just plain folks. Let us know how it went!

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    • Her Odyssey July 24, 2018 at 8:23 am Reply

      I was talking about you the other day, Tim. How you helped me lay the groundwork for all of this.

      Un abrazo!

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  • theredheadednomad.com July 23, 2018 at 5:50 am Reply

    We’ve only been in Colombia a few weeks now, but I can tell you that it’s much, much, much better than Mexico in terms of the harassment you wrote about. Mexico was really tough that way.

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    • Her Odyssey July 24, 2018 at 8:25 am Reply

      We were talking about it yesterday and putting the countries we have passed through in order of most to least sexual harassment (general harassment and staring would change the order significantly):
      Chile (daily, when around people)
      Argentina
      Peru
      Bolivia (more general harassment, staring, being profiled and overcharged for being white, etc but not outwardly sexual)
      Ecuador (very little)

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    • Her Odyssey July 24, 2018 at 8:26 am Reply

      Also, thank you for the beta. I was wondering how it would be in Mexico…

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