• Support us on Patreon
Her Odyssey
  • Speaking & Engagements
  • HER ODYSSEY
    • MISSION
    • BIO & ARCHIVES
    • ROUTE RESOURCES
    • FINANCIALS
      • Budget
      • Pay it Forward
      • SHOP
    • PARTNERS
  • EXPEDITION ARCHIVE
  • LIBRARY
Her Odyssey
  • Speaking & Engagements
  • HER ODYSSEY
    • MISSION
    • BIO & ARCHIVES
    • ROUTE RESOURCES
    • FINANCIALS
      • Budget
      • Pay it Forward
      • SHOP
    • PARTNERS
  • EXPEDITION ARCHIVE
  • LIBRARY
September 12, 2013January 19, 2019

Day 2 [Two] Tired

One of oh-so-many things I look forward to when overnighting outdoors is letting my body decide when to wake up.
No rude alarms or calendar reminders buzzing; I can take as many tries as necessary to ease into the day.

Further pleased on this particular morning, with a 2500 foot climb behind me and a 3000 foot whiz down to Steamboat on the horizon.
Turns out, I was mistaken to think the Continental Divide sign implied having reached to top of the climb.

How could I have anticipated 2 [two] climbs would be involved in getting over Rabbit Ears Pass?!

Setting out with low expectations set me up for stellar success. In the pre-ride wave of consternation and doubt I had fully prepared to be walking Nippon up the majority of the climb.
Another good thing about roads, they are graded.

I only dismounted when it was time for a break. Further spectacular was that every time this happened in the vicinity of others, they would seek me out and proffer food!

Entered Grand County and just as quickly passed out of it and into Routt County and Medicine-Bow Routt National Forest.

Rabbit Ears Recreation Map

A lovely area, it invites further exploration. The signs indicate it is snowmobile friendly. Research (typing it in to Google) yields dozens of videos which back this up.
Abundant roadside propaganda encourages ramblers of all modes to share the trail.
Though, with as much Wilderness and non-motorized options available, I find it more pleasant to give other kinds of recreationers wide berth. B/c neither of us (hikers and motorized vehicle riders) enjoy abruptly encountering the other on a blind curve. Also, as I learned from traveling through overlapping areas on the Pacific Crest Trail, the resulting trail wear from different uses makes it difficult for the other to travel.
[The irony of fleshing out this distinction while riding a bicycle alongside semi-trucks is not lost on me.]

Rabbit Ears Pass (west) offered a large parking area for recreationists and, at last, the much anticipated downhill.
A frequently ridden road, the shoulders were wide and smooth. In that 8 mile stretch, I encountered more riders than the entire day previous.
The long downhill was exhilarating and I quickly experienced why road cyclists appear tight lipped when they’re riding; bugs.

Soared into Steamboat on a gust of undue glory.
I am Atlanta.

Hung around Safeway, charging phone, filling water vessels from bathroom sinks, poaching free samples from Starbucks and just generally being cheerfully trashy. The ‘clipless’ (ie. Clip-in) shoes clacked on the floor like high heels, making me feel really quite supreme.

Here I had reached the edge of what I knew. Asked a couple employees and the consensus was much to my liking, the road to Craig was generally flat and mostly shouldered. I set out for the last 40 miles.

They were right, mountains gave way to a landscape akin to states to the north.
Trees and shrubs tell of water; otherwise, open and low fields, divided and cropped in familiar patterns.
Hay or cattle trucks became the most frequent passers-by on this gently curving road, sometimes hedged by overhanging cliffs.

Falcons and hawks listed overhead; the sound of their call across open space.

Craig.

I imagined I was riding highway 2 across Montana, on my way to Dancing Moon Ranch.

Encountered construction twice, both times without incident.

Again, thank you courteous drivers.

Passed through a few small towns, then there was.  .  .

Arriving at the hotel just minutes before the rain, I checked into my room.

Talk about shifting too fast and dropping your chain! It was a quick transition from Road Bike Brave to State Health Care Conference Attendee. Those 3 days in sum:
The Goliath institutions of our country have set massive mechanisms of change in motion. And change at this scale comes with Growing Pains.

Whatever the personal politics, it was good to be in a room of allies. Asking questions and realizing we are not alone in our frustrations. Much to the detriment of produtivity, the hotel internet kept crashing. I pointed out this was great real time practice for the first rocky months of simultaneously developing, managing, and using a massive online system of highly sensitive information.

On Friday, packed and mounted up, making my way back toward Steamboat.

Just outside of Hayden, got my first flat.

Fun Friday afternoon.

Having wasted the CO2 cartridges hosing freezing smellyness all over my bedroom while attempting to plug them into the little device before the ride, I had opted against bringing such. I spent an hour and a half trying to fill a new tube but even as the hand pump (which I had borrowed from my mountain bike) heated up, the tube remained flaccid at best.
Turned down two [2] rides to town, determined to fix this myself.
An hour and a half later, just as Papa M had warned, a passing storm cell detected my distress and loomed near. nerves on edge, I was deciding which piece of the whole mess to throw into the road when Rob Bos-Sox rolled up.

We broke the bike down, fit it into his speedy little car and were again on our way to Steamboat. Rob had set off from his Maryland home on the Summer Solstice to travel the country, photographing landscapes and old machinery and meeting up with old friends along the way. A knee blow-out had laid him up in the area for longer than expected.

Demonstrating a level of chivalry on which our generation has all but given up, he dropped me at a bike shop, made sure I had access to everything necessary before washing the chain grease off his hands and departing.

Discovered a significant tear in the tire wall. Purchased a new one and replaced it myself on the bike repair stand outside the shop. It wasn’t efficient or pretty. The cyclist’s equivalent to a 1st grader’s drawing (when viewed by anyone other than their parents).

5 blocks to Bolt’s lofted apartment. We met on the Colorado Trail last year. Reunions never come without some degree of preemptive nerves but after a few moments we were back to laughing and fervently discussing future grand endavours and comparing notes.

Something happens when people, motivated even in different directions, come together. The will and desire rekindles and is amplified; multiplying disproportionately. It is wonderful and exhilarating.
We spent several hours eating and catching up.

Mighty Mouse met us and she and I loaded Nippon onto the bike rack on her car and set off into the night, up the mountain, to Strawberry Park Hot Springs. Darkness obscured the scope of the pool but it is certainly larger than any other hot springs I’ve yet encountered. Lapping silence surrounded, making those few of us remaining in the pool feel each must be the last one there.

Thin white fog hovered over the water where it faded into darkness. Stars crowded overhead, the Milky Way was a thick band across the cosmos. The main pool was chin deep in some areas and quite hot. Water spilled through a hole in the stone retaining wall, cascading into a shallower, cooler pool below. A massive stone chimney contained a happily crackling fire where we enjoyed conversation and pontification late into the night.
Suffice it to say, it was well worth the $10 entrance fee.

Camped at a trail head near by. Mowed slabs of banana nut bread in the morning, went for a short hike, then a garage sale, then home.

As always, I’ve done my best but words cannot encapsulate the full experience.

Posted in Bikepacking, Colorado
Tagged ACA, Bike Colorado, Bolt, Craig, flat tire fiasco, Grand County, Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest, Road Bike, Snowmobile, Steamboat, Strawberry Park Hot Springs
1 Comment
Her Odyssey
  • Facebook
  • Twitter

Post navigation

   Over the Road Biking: Day 1
Let’s do the Time Warp Again   

You may also like

Bikepacking Guatemala

Continue Reading

Bikepacking Chiapas Pt. 2: San Cristobal de las Casas to the Guatemala Border

Continue Reading

Comments (1)

  • gkendallhughes September 14, 2013 at 3:46 am Reply

    You and your allies may be the “David” many people need to help them overcome the healthcare Goliaths.

    Sorry to hear about your flat tire fiasco, and am glad a Bosox fan was kind to a KC Royals fan.

    Loading...

Leave a ReplyCancel reply

we are

Her Odyssey

On this venture of over 20,000 miles, we are traveling the length of the Americas by non-motorized means, connecting stories of the land and its inhabitants.

follow her odyssey

Enter your email to subscribe to our posts and latest news

Join 6,928 other subscribers

Watch us!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBYqqSEF9JM

Categories

Backpacking Bikepacking Colorado Community En Español Fidgit Her Odyssey Herstory International Travel Neon Patagonia Thru-Hike Planning Thru-hike Uncategorized

_herodyssey_

#SlowTravel 👣 22,000+ #humanpowered miles, connecting stories from Patagonia to the Arctic 🛶🚲 🌎 #womenled #sponsoredathlete

@nolsedu WFR recertification @nolsedu WFR recertification
Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' Attending the very first CWW led 'Packraft Soiree' 2023 on the North Fork American River was a blast!

Big gratitude to all the folks and brands out there making it happen!
A few who've buoyed my water dabbling:
 @alpacka_raft @hyperlite_mountain_gear @sawyerproducts @astralfootwear @sweetprotection
A healer told me to go find big rocks. Loved ones A healer told me to go find big rocks. 
Loved ones've been telling me to seek joy. 
I've been craving time in water.

So gathered some rockstars, and in we went.
I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @ I am beyond stoked to be speaking at this year's @aldhawest Gathering! Sharing stories and precepts of Slow Travel, distilled from Her Odyssey and a life abroad. 🌎

Bringing it first to the thru-hiking community who expand horizons and honor markers such as the prestigious Triple Crown Ceremony, will make for a lively community event! You should probably follow their page to keep up as they announce the rich variety of presenters I've been hearing whispers about. 
🤫 📣

Bring laughter, curiosity, and what you've learned from the miles in between.
Can't wait to see you there! 
 
~Fidgit 💚 
 
#herodyssey #slowtravel #aldhawest #hikertrash
1/5 *THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AME 1/5
*THE FIRST WOMAN TO WALK THE LENGTH OF THE AMERICAS: 
MARGUERITE GEIST* 

To conclude this digital account of Her Odyssey, I would like to share the earliest record I’ve found of a modern person walking the length of the Americas. Circa ~1920S

#herodyssey #acrosstheamericas #humanpowered #slowtravel #outdoorwomen #womenofadventure #womenwhoexplore #selfpropelled #herstory #empowerher #nature #optoutside #hiking #womenwhohike #outdoors #everythinglessmatters #livefeetfirst #thermaresting #garmininstinct #inreachmini #garminconnect #garmininreach #garminexplore #forceofnature #travelphotography #femmetravel #passionpassport #naturephotography
To all the mothers and nurturers; recognized, over To all the mothers and nurturers; recognized, overlooked, and missed,
🌲 HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY💐

Words by @drsuzannesimard
#findingthemothertree

". . .  we know Mother Trees can truly nurture their offspring. Douglas firs, it turns out, recognize their kin and distinguish them from other families and different species. They communicate and send carbon, the building block of life, not just to the mycorrhizas of their kin but to other members of the community. To help keep it whole. They appear to relate to their offspring as do mothers passing their best recipes to their daughters. Conveying their life energy, their wisdom, to carry life forward." 

 -From the book 'Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest'

I will always treasure hiking into Machu Picchu with my mom in 2017. 💚
#herodyssey 

Bonus young mom/childhood #throwbackpic of the Hughes (Fidgít's  fam)
Follow on Instagram

Join our journey!

Join 6,928 other subscribers

Most popular tags

adventure bikepacking Continental Divide Trail Her Odyssey Hiking Hyperlite Mountain Gear MExico Panama Patagonia sea kayaking Thru-hike Thru-hiking Travel Women

© Her Odyssey 2019
%d