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February 23, 2016January 19, 2019

Puerto Natales

Haz clic aquÍ para leer en español

In Puerto Natales, we fit right in with the throngs of tourists with backpacks. The only differences were our trail runners to their boots, our 20 kilo packs to their 40, and our stink scent.We found the coffee/internet shop just off the plaza de armas and began the business of trying to figure out town basics – where to sleep being the main priority after getting food in our stomachs.

Per Bruce´s advice since Punta Arenas, we navigated toward Erratic Rock. Founded by Oregonians, the family have created a fully supportive system for visitors. Everything from providing a place to stay, storage of extra gear, free talks about the park (at base-camp, next door), gear rental, and guides. You name it, they’ve got you covered! I was delighted with all of it down to the burritos and beta Omar gave me from across the bar.

Most helpfully, they are open and available between noon and 4 pm. The reception was very welcoming – not only to us but to every person who walked through the door, whether they were staying or not, they were welcome to the warm little stove and to enjoy viewing the impressive selection of VHS tapes which lined the wall.

Over a few days, we got to know the team better and watched a constant flow of people going to and from “the park” i.e. Torres del Paine. We cooked together, we chatted, they showed us their eco-conscious business model. In a country where recycling is still a foreign concept, they go out of their way to make it happen. “Even if you aren’t staying here, please bring us your recycling!” Riley chirped. At the age of 19, she was already a world traveler and had been posted up there for some 4 months as support staff.

They stitch together their own grocery bags (most of the towns we’ve visited are plastic bag free) from old tents for use as folks make trips to the grocery store to resupply.

It is also worth noting they directed us to the best dried goods store in town. They had everything we could want from candied ginger to the hikers holy grail, PEANUT BUTTER. It even came in plastic containers! We were delighted and resupplied not only for the road walk out to the park (90 km) but also for a week in the park to explore a bit.

hola_natalesA curiosity about the town since we arrived was the silhouette of some sort of strange creature on all the road signs and several buildings. Lo and behold it is the milodon. A creature said to have existed in the area in the time of the dinosaurs. By the local’s recount it had the body of a giant bear and the face of a horse. In fact, as we headed north out of town along the Y-290 we passed the Milodon cave and chatted with a  very friendly Guardia Parque.

Puerto Natales

Traducción por Henry Tovar

En Puerto Natales, nos ajustamos a la perfección con la multitud de turistas con mochilas. Las únicas diferencias eran nuestros corredores de montaña a sus botas, nuestros 20 paquetes de kilo a sus 40, y nuestra olorosa escencia. Encontramos el cafe/Internet justo al lado de la plaza de armas y comenzamos el negocio de tratar de averiguar lo básico de la ciudad. Donde dormir siendo la prioridad principal despúes de la obtención de alimentos en el estómago.

Por consejo de Bruce desde Punta Arenas, navegamos hacia Erratica Rock. Fundada en por los habitantes Oregorianos, la familia ha creado un sistema completo de apoyo para los visitantes. Todo, desde proporcionar un lugar para alojarse, almacenamiento de material extra, charlas gratuitas sobre el parque (en el campamento base, al lado) hasta alquiler de equipos y guías. Lo que sea, lo tenemos cubierto! Yo estaba encantada con todo ello, desde los burritos y beta que omar me dio desde el otro lado de la barra.

Más útiles, que están abiertos y disponibles entre el medio día y las 4 pm. La recepción fue muy acogedora, no sólo a nosotras sino a cada persona que entró por la puerta, ya sea que se vayan a quedar o no, son bienvenidos a calentarse con la pequeña estufa y disfrutar viendo la extensa selección de cintas de VHS que se alineaban en la pared.

Durante unos días, llegamos a conocer mejor al equipo y vimos un flujo constante de personas que van y vienen ´´al parque´´ es decir, Torres del Paine. Cocinamos juntos, charlamos, nos mostraron su modelo de negocio con conciencia ecológica. En un país donde el reciclaje todavía es un concepto extraño, que salen de su camino para que esto ocurra. ´´incluso si no te alojas aquí, por favor traiga su reciclaje´´. Sonó Riley. A la edad de 19 años ya era un viajero del mundo y se ha alojado allí por unos 4 meses como personal de apoyo.

Cosen juntos sus propias bolsas de supermercado (la mayoría de las ciudades que hemos visitado son libres de bolsas de plastico) de las viejas tiendas de campaña para su uso las personas hacen viajes al supermercado para reabastecer.

También es digno de mensión que ellos nos dirigieron hacía la mejor tienda de productos secos de la ciudad. Tenían todo lo que podíamos desear, desde caramelos de jengibre confitados a el santo grial de los excursionistas, MANTEQUILLA DE MANÍ. Incluso venían en botellas de plástico! Estabamos encantadas y reabastecimos no solo para el camino fuera del parque (90 km) sino también para la semana en el parque, para explorar un poco.

hola_natalesUna curiosidad acerca del pueblo desde que llegamos fue la silueta de un tipo de extraña criatura en todas las señales de tráfico y varios edificios. lo y he aquí, es el Milodón. Una criatura, dicen, que ha existido en la zona en la época de los dinosaurios. Por recuento de lo local que tenía el cuerpo de un oso gigante y la cara de un caballo. De hecho, como nos dirigimos hacia el norte de la ciudad a lo largo de la y-290 pasamos por la Cueva del Milodón y conversamos con un guarda parque muy amable.

 

Posted in En Español, Fidgit, Her Odyssey, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Thru-hike
Tagged Erratic Rock, Finding Peanut Butter in Patagonia, milodon, Puerto Natales
1 Comment
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Comments (1)

  • Cliff Rawley February 24, 2016 at 6:42 am Reply

    Hi Bethany, Thanks for your interesting travel stories. We are happy you found a god dry good store to find peanut butter for the continuing journey. Blessing, Cliff Rawley

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