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  • Speaking & Engagements
  • HER ODYSSEY
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January 3, 2016January 19, 2019

Back Road Walking

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

We came out of the wilderness onto a muddy track. Onto our first estancia, the homefront establishments on tracts of land in the region, much like ranches in the United States. We were met by 7 dogs who trotted along with us peeing on everything. It feels back in time, out here. No power lines; log buildings, barns, horses grazing.

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Pondering the ultimate question of life.

Over the gate and onto dirt road route nine. 69 km to the main/only highway across the island. We saw all of two vehicles that first day. Farm and ranch folk out here are much like ours back home. Most drive trucks. Everyone waves. Fence lines run for many kms, always under repair.

Foxes are more frequent. The guanaco, a larger cousin of the llama, move in herds and are notably less bothered by our passing. On the second day, a large bull in a far field lowered his head and pawed at the dirt. We scuttled up the far bank of the road. He forgot us, and we discovered footpaths alongside the road. Much more forgiving on our feet.

We also observed, furthest from town, the littered bottles of choice were unlabeled wine. Then, about 40 km out, beer.  Closest to town, around 15 km, hard liquor.

Animals caught and dead on the fences. We got excited when we saw stop signs, or, really anything. The kilometers clicked by at about 12 minutes per. Road walking is a mental challenge more than anything.

Arriving in Rio Grande, we scarf a pizza. Marcelo welcomes us into his home and we all enjoy an evening of looking at Google Earth and what is yet to come.

De vuelta al camino

Traducción por Henry Tovar

Hemos salido de la tierra salvaje a un camino fangoso. En nuestra primera estancia, los establecimientos con frente interno en las extensiones de tierra en la región, al igual que los ranchos en Estados Unidos. Nos encontramos con 7 perros que trotaban junto con nosotras orinandose en todo. Se siente como volver en el tiempo aquí afuera. No hay líneas de alta tensión; armazones de madera, graneros, caballos pastando.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASobre la puerta y en la sucia ruta nueve. 69 km a la principial y única carretera en toda la isla. Vimos los únicos dos vehículos ese primer día. Las granjas y los ranchos son muy parecidos a los nuestros en casa. La mayoría son camioneros, todo el mundo nos saluda. La lineas de la cerca se extienden por kilómetros, siempre en reparación.

Los zorros son más frecuentes. El Guanaco, una especie de primo más grande de la Llama, se mueven en manadas y son notablemente menos molestos por nuestro paso. En el segundo día , un gran toro en un campo lejano bajó la cabeza y pateó la tierra. Nos hechamos a pique hasta la otra orilla de la carretera. Se olvidó de nosotros, hemos descubierto senderos junto a la carretera mucho mas tolerantes a nuestros pies.

También observamos, más alejado de la ciudad, las botellas de vino sin etiqueta. Luego, a unos 40 km hacia afuera, cerveza. Y más cercano a la ciudad, a unos 15 km, licor fuerte.

animales atrapados y muertos en las vallas. Llegamos emocionadas cuando vimos las señales de alto, o realmente nada. Los kilometros hacían click cerca de cada 12 minutos. El camino a pie es un reto mental mas que nada.

Al llegar a Rio Grande, nos comimos una pizza. Marcelo nos recibió en su casa y todos disfrutamos de una noche de mirar el Google Earth y lo que esta por venir.

Posted in En Español, Fidgit, Her Odyssey, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Thru-hike
Tagged Estancias, Rio Grande, Tierra del Fuego
10 Comments
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   54 Degrees South
Leaving Rio Grande   

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Comments (10)

  • Clifford B. Rawley January 3, 2016 at 6:50 pm Reply

    Hi Bethany, We appreciated reading your post. You write about your journey in such a descriptive way. You are a good writer. We are happy to hear you are spending the night with friendly people and even found a pizza to get refreshed!
    We pray for your safety and enjoyment of the journey,
    Cliff and Martha Rawley

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  • ethan January 3, 2016 at 7:26 pm Reply

    Hey B. So glad to see you “out there”. Wish Neon a happy birthday for me. Be well. -E

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  • Mary Shideler January 3, 2016 at 7:32 pm Reply

    Your observations regarding discarded liquor ( containers) of choice by km from town made me have a silly smile. Wonder how that works in northern mn. I must pay closer attention…. Sending a fresh batch of pixie dust. Although you two are doing just fine on your own…..

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    • Fidgit January 5, 2016 at 7:42 am Reply

      We feel it! Love you northern girls.

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  • keyworthgraphics January 3, 2016 at 7:54 pm Reply

    carry on dear women! chin up…chop chop

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    • Fidgit January 5, 2016 at 7:42 am Reply

      Thanks Will!
      Whenever I think of you I do a little dance step out there on the long days. =)

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  • NEMO January 3, 2016 at 8:50 pm Reply

    But I want to know about the dead animals on the fences. What kind?

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    • Fidgit January 5, 2016 at 7:41 am Reply

      Mostly guanaco who didn’t clear it. Looked like the dried skin of one dog. It was super cool and creepy.
      I spent the next 20 km wishing I’d taken a picture.

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  • Kathy January 4, 2016 at 4:43 am Reply

    Bethany, You were here with us at Christmas. We talked about you and read about your journey with such excitement. The dogs were just trying to make you one of their own. Keep having fun.

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    • Fidgit January 5, 2016 at 7:38 am Reply

      That warms my heart!
      Honored to be included.

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From our gingerbread and graham cracker village in Keystone, CO to you and yours. ❄️
10 days in silence at Suan Mokkh Hermitage ~~~~~ 10 days in silence at Suan Mokkh Hermitage

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Excerpts from 'Going Home' by Thich Nhat Hanh:

When you practice the bell of mindfulness, you breathe in, and you listen deeply to the sound of the bell, and you say, "Listen, listen." Then you breathe out and you say, "This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home. Our true home is something we all want to go back to. Some of us feel we don't have a home.

Does a wave have a home? When a wave looks deeply into herself, she will realize the presence of all the other waves. When we are mindful, fully living each moment of our daily lives, we may realize that everyone and everything around us is our home.

Isn't it true that the air we breathe is our home, that the blue sky, the rivers, the mountains, the people around us, the trees, and the animals are our home? 

A wave looking deeply into herself will see that she is made up of all the other waves and will no longer feel she is cut off from everything around her. She will be able to recognize that the other waves are also her home. 

When you practice walking meditation, walk in such a way that you recognize your home, in the here and the now. See the trees as your home, the air as your home, the blue sky as your home, and the earth that you tread as your home. This can only be done in the here and the now.

Sometimes we have a feeling of alienation. We feel lonely and as if we are cut off from everything. We have been a wanderer and have tried hard but have never been able to reach our true home. However, we all have a home, and this is our practice, the practice of going home.

When we say, "Home sweet home," where is it? When we practice looking deeply, we realize that our home is everywhere. We have to be able to see that the trees are our home and the blue sky is our home. It looks like a difficult practice, but it's really easy. You only need to stop being a wanderer in order to be at home. "Listen, listen. This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home."

What is the home of a wave? The home of the wave is all the other waves, and the home of the wave is water.
Grateful to work with brands like @toaksoutdoor wh Grateful to work with brands like @toaksoutdoor who keep it real.

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Temples around Chiang Mai. 🐉 🛕 #traveltip: bring Temples around Chiang Mai. 🐉 🛕

#traveltip: bring shoes comfy for walking and easy to slip on and off, as you take shoes and hats off at the entrance to all temples and most homes.

Travel tip for women: have clothing which covers your knees and shoulders before entering temples. Bring a wrap or something easy to pack along for a day of hoofing it!
⛱️ in the ☃️ and the Pacific was good to me. Lon ⛱️ in the ☃️ and the Pacific was good to me. 

Long strolls and sits, digging for hot springs treasure in beach sand, kayaking coastline, and so much more.

Ever grateful to México for being generous and welcoming neighbors.

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Faith Evolving On these new moon nights, I warm m Faith Evolving

On these new moon nights, I warm my heart thinking through matters of gratitude since the last full moon. Approaching Solstice, may we do the same with the revolution of the year; ReflecT, while those of us in the northern hemisphere are wrapped in darkness. Shine, for those in the southern.

A few of my dark & lights:

Best laid plans going horribly awry, sitting still with the fear and hurt, trusting my gut to lead the way through uncertainty to unexpected delights and the sort of folk who nurture and reconstitute joy, hope, and spirit rather than prey on and drain it. Practicing boundaries with both.

-Cozy @farmtofeet socks just right for the season
-Holiday celebrations and getting to elf around on stage for kiddos
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-Engaging with the health and wellbeing of my faithful body, having all I need within walking distance, collecting herbs for tea along the way
-Honoring Beings like mountain agave and rich books
-Y mucho más (Patreon Peeps, holiday missive coming out soon!)

May you be warm, may you be healthy, may you feel loved. 
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