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January 10, 2016January 19, 2019

Story Time: Misión Salesiana Graveyard

Haz clic aquÍ para leer en español

Across Route 3 from Misión Salesiana lies a cemetery. Herein are about 150 grave markers bearing no names or identification, these mark the final resting place of island natives.

It is a story I have been told several times along our hike of the history of this land, telling of the transition from when the native tribes had control to the beginnings of modernization.

Three tribes once roamed the island of Tierra del Fuego, living mainly off the local fare, mainly guanaco. They ate large animals and used their furs to weather the long and snowy winters. As Europeans came to settle the land, it was divided into Estancias, vast properties where farm animals, primarily sheep, were imported to pasture and generate wealth for the pioneer landowners.

The Onas Indians, unaware of the power shift, were thrilled to find such new and easy fare on the land they had always known. They took to the sheep, as they were much easier to hunt than the guanaco. The new landowners (here the story gets a bit mixed as to who did what. Some say it was Sara Braun, though I cannot confirm this against online sources) did not appreciate their herds being thinned. A posse was rounded up to deal with the native “problem” and so, in one fell swoop, the natives were disposed of.

Here the local priests stepped into the role of arbitrator, attempting to defend natives against pioneers, creating their missions as a safe place and trying to help the natives adapt to the changing power dynamics.


Those who have mentioned it seem to bring it up in the terms of weighing human life against that of stock animals. The ongoing struggle between those who value wealth and those who value human life.

La hora del cuento: Cementerio de la Misión Salesiana

Traducción por Henry Tovar

Al otro lado de la ruta 3 de la Misión Salesiana se encuentra un cementerio. En este hay alrededor de 150 lápidas que no llevan ni nombres ni identificación, estas marcan el lugar de descanso final del os nativos de la isla.

Es una historia que me han dicho varias veces a lo largo de nuestra caminata por la historia de estas tierras, contando a partir de la transición, cuando las tribus tenían el control a los inicios de la modernizacíon.

Tres tribus una vez habitaron la isla de Tierra del Fuego, viviendo principalmente de la tarifa local, pricipalmente Guanaco. Comian animales grandes y usaban sus pieles para resistir los inviernos largos y con nieve. Cuando los Europeos llegaron para establecerse en esta tierra, se dividieron en estancias, vastas propiedades en los que los animales de granja principalmente ovejas, fueron importados a los pastos y para generar riquezas para los pioneros propietarios.

 

Los indios Onas, sin darse cuenta del cambio en el poder, quedaron encantado de encontrar dicha tarifa nueva y fácil en la tierra que siempre habían conocido. Se llevaron las ovejas, ya que eran mucho mas fáciles de cazar que el Guanaco. Los nuevos propietarios (en este caso la historia se vuelve un poco confusa en cuanto a quién hizo qué. Algúnos dicen que fue Sara Braun, aunque no puedo confirmar eso en contra de fuentes online) no apreciaban la idea de que sus rebaños disminuian en número. Una pandilla fue juntada para hacer frente al ´´problema´´ nativo y por lo tanto, de un solo golpe, los nativos fueron eliminados.

Aquí los sacerdotes locales entraron en el papel de árbitro, al tratar de defender nativos contra pioneros, creando sus misiones como un lugar seguro y tratando de ayudar a los indigenas a adaptarse a las cambiantes dinámicas de poder.
Los que han mencionado parecen tocar el tema como una relación de el peso de la vida humana frente a los animales de reserva. La lucha continua entre los que valoran la riqueza y los que valoran la vida humana.

Posted in En Español, Fidgit, Her Odyssey, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Story Time, Uncategorized
Tagged History of Tierra del Fuego, natives get the short end of the stick, Story Time
3 Comments
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Comments (3)

  • Clifford B. Rawley January 11, 2016 at 8:32 pm Reply

    Hi Bethany,
    Thanks for this well written report on the local history you are discovering. Your logs are so very interesting. This struggle of the rich versus the poor continues to be our biggest human problem.
    Blessings on your journey, Cliff and Martha Rawley

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  • WriterPaints January 12, 2016 at 8:20 am Reply

    Bethany,
    You’re an inspiration. I feel so honored to listen and watch from afar as you journey in and around people, places and things that make up our world. Good for you! Best to you, Kathleen

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  • Virginia Nugent January 12, 2016 at 6:56 pm Reply

    Any details on the introduction of missionaries? Christianity is not known for its tolerance of “natives”. Interesting that they are being positioned here as rescuers. Any information on that?

    Love keeping up with you – left foot, right foot.

    Virginia

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Excerpts from 'Going Home' by Thich Nhat Hanh:

When you practice the bell of mindfulness, you breathe in, and you listen deeply to the sound of the bell, and you say, "Listen, listen." Then you breathe out and you say, "This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home. Our true home is something we all want to go back to. Some of us feel we don't have a home.

Does a wave have a home? When a wave looks deeply into herself, she will realize the presence of all the other waves. When we are mindful, fully living each moment of our daily lives, we may realize that everyone and everything around us is our home.

Isn't it true that the air we breathe is our home, that the blue sky, the rivers, the mountains, the people around us, the trees, and the animals are our home? 

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Sometimes we have a feeling of alienation. We feel lonely and as if we are cut off from everything. We have been a wanderer and have tried hard but have never been able to reach our true home. However, we all have a home, and this is our practice, the practice of going home.

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