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February 26, 2017January 19, 2019

Leaving Antuco, celebrating my birthday, and walking to Community Puente Ingles and San Fabian

Haz clic aquí para leer en español

Written by Neon

The (late) morning of January 1st, 2017 (how did that happen?!) Fidgit and I packed up and hitch-hiked back to the trail. We got a ride with a kind couple who were only going a short distance and dropped us at a bus stop a few kilometers past their turn off. We then were picked up by a guide/engineer, Louise, who was heading to the same place we were for a day-hike. Louise ended up walking with us most of the day, excited to have company as well as share his knowledge of the area with us. We parted ways late in the day when our paths diverged. Fidgit and I headed up a steep rocky area to continue Jan’s GPT route along Laguna Las Lajas, and Louise hiked to a lake nearby before returning to his car. We hiked a few more kilometers up and found a campsite near the ridgeline. Tired from the hike and so much socializing in the past couple days, I fell asleep quickly after dinner.

1
Fidgit walking along above Laguna Las Lajas
2
Louise, Neon and Fidgit leaving Antuco

We woke up to a chilly morning, packed up and walked along the ridge most of the day, sharing company with some condors floating lazily above us. Though the ridge-walking was mostly water-less, the route dropped down for a short time to a water source before climbing back up and continuing its march along the ridge. We spent the evening dropping steeply down the northern end of the Laguna and were able to find a lovely place to camp near a meadow speckled with horses and cows.

In the morning, I woke up to Fidgit having sneakily decorated the tent while I slept. It was my 32nd birthday, and she had found some decorations in town. I’m very lucky to have such a compassionate hiking partner, and usually wish that I could be so thoughtful. We hiked on, through a windy valley that led to a low saddle between some peaks, and we dropped down to an old access road. At the road, we decided to push to see if we could make it to a marked hot springs by evening. Music in my ears and road walking made the kilometers go by faster and we made it to the hot  springs around 8 p.m., just in time to be invited to have dinner with the caretakers, Yoanela and Miguel. They were so kind, and even took part in Fidgit’s idea to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ to me. After we agreed to join them for breakfast the next morning, Fidgit and I went to sleep near 1 a.m. – far past my bedtime.

3
Fidgit checking the GPS above the Laguna

After a lovely breakfast the next morning, we decided to stay a day, rest, and learn more from Yoanela and Miguel. They shared much information, including their family history of coming to these springs for generations. Their passion and knowledge for the area was evident and we discussed them often as we continued our hike northward along the cordillera.

4
We made it to hot springs for Neon’s 32nd birthday!

We valley hopped a couple of low saddles and then began our climb to Volcan Chillán. Up a steep, well-used horse path we went for 5 kilometers to come over a crest to the view of the volcano with some horses staring at us in the foreground. We then crossed a high valley to some more natural hot springs! We unfortunately didn’t get to spend as much time at these springs as the last ones, though we were able to enjoy them for a time.

5
The hot springs’ caretakers with some of Manuel’s woodwork

As we crested the next saddle along Volcan Chillán, we heard something that sounded like a rock slide. Looking toward the noise, I watched a large plume of smoke rise from the mouth of the volcano. I had assumed that most volcanoes were dormant or aggressively active; as it turns out, some are minimally active. We watched the smoke travel across the sky and cover the sun above. A short while later, ash began raining down as we made our way down the valley. We sped up and made quick time getting down to the river at the bottom of the valley.

6
Staring horses at the pass near Volcan Chillan

After crossing the river and not seeing any more smoke being burped out of the volcano, we stopped to eat some lunch before heading up to one last pass before town. Over the pass, we came down to a valley and were able to follow a well-traveled animal path to a road which then led us into the community of Puente Ingles.

We arrived in Puente Ingles on a Saturday, which wasn’t convenient for catching a bus into the nearest sizable town of San Fabian, but was convenient for hitch-hiking into town. Even then, it took a while for someone to pick us up, as most of the vehicles that passed were stuffed with people and things. We were finally given a ride by a local man out with his son for the day. He told us about many things on the ride, including the large dam that is being built along Rio Nubles that, once built, will flood the community of Puente Ingles. We arrived in San Fabian and found a hostel run by a kind woman named Angelica. She welcomed us in and helped us with more information about the town, including where the internet was(the town square) and where to find food (which markets had what) Thanks to the locals, we were able to make the most of our time in town.

7
Neon with Volcan Chillan having a minor eruption in the background
9
Our hitch-hiking spot/a bus stop
8
An older lava flow near Volcan Chillan
10
Angelica with her daughter and grandson

Click here to go visit Neon’s blog page.


Saliendo de Antuco, celebrando mi cumpleaños, y caminando a Comunidad Puente Ingles y San Fabian

Escrito por Neon
Traducción por Henry Tovar

La (tarde) mañana del 1 de enero de 2017 (¿cómo sucedió eso ?!) Fidgit y yo hicimos las maletas y regresamos al sendero. dimos un paseo con una pareja amable que sólo fuimos a una corta distancia y nos dejó en una parada de autobús a pocos kilómetros después de su desvío. Luego nos recogió un guía / ingeniero, Louise, que estaba dirigiendo al mismo lugar que estábamos para una caminata de un día. Louise terminó caminando con nosotros la mayor parte del día, emocionado de tener compañía, así como compartir su conocimiento de la zona con nosotros. Nos separamos maneras tarde en el día cuando nuestros caminos divergieron. Fidgit y yo dirigimos una empinada zona rocosa para continuar la ruta GPT de Jan a lo largo de Laguna Las Lajas, y Louise caminó hacia un lago cercano antes de regresar a su coche. Hicimos un poco más de kilómetros y encontramos un camping cerca de la cresta. Cansado de la caminata y socialización tanto en los últimos dos días, me quedé dormido rápidamente después de la cena.

1
Fidgit caminando por Laguna Las Lajas

 

2
Louise, Neon y Fidgit viviendo Antuco

Nos despertamos a una mañana fría, lleno y caminamos a lo largo de la cresta la mayor parte del día, compartiendo compañía con algunos cóndores flotando perezosamente por encima de nosotros. Aunque la caminata de la cresta era en su mayoría sin agua, la ruta se dejó caer por un corto período de tiempo a una fuente de agua antes de subir de nuevo y continuar su marcha a lo largo de la cresta. Pasamos la noche cayendo abruptamente en el extremo norte de la Laguna y pudimos encontrar un lugar encantador para acampar cerca de un prado moteado con caballos y vacas.
Por la mañana, me desperté a Fidgit habiendo sneakily decorado la tienda mientras dormía. Era mi 32 cumpleaños, y ella había encontrado algunas decoraciones en la ciudad. Tengo mucha suerte de tener un compañero de senderismo compasivo, y por lo general deseo que pueda ser tan atento. Hicimos una caminata, a través de un valle ventoso que condujo a una silla baja entre algunos picos, y nos bajamos a una vieja carretera de acceso. En la carretera, decidimos empujar para ver si podíamos llegar a una aguas termales calientes por la noche. La música en mis oídos y caminar por la calle hizo que los kilómetros pasaran más rápido y llegamos a las aguas termales alrededor de las 8 pm, justo a tiempo para ser invitados a cenar con los cuidadores, Yoanela y Miguel. Fueron tan amables, e incluso participaron en la idea de Fidgit de cantar ‘Feliz Cumpleaños’ para mí. Después de que acordamos unirnos para el desayuno a la mañana siguiente, Fidgit y yo fuimos a dormir cerca de 1 a.m. – mucho más allá de mi hora de acostarse.

3
Fidgit comprobando el GPS por encima de la Laguna

Después de un delicioso desayuno a la mañana siguiente, decidimos quedarnos un día, descansar, y aprender más de Yoanela y Miguel. Compartieron mucha información, incluyendo su historia familiar de venir a estos manantiales por generaciones. Su pasión y conocimiento para el área era evidente y los discutimos a menudo mientras que continuamos nuestra caminata hacia el norte a lo largo de la cordillera.

4
Llegamos a las aguas termales para el cumpleanos numero 32 de Neon

Nosotros el valle saltamos un par de sillas de montar bajas y entonces comenzamos nuestra subida a Volcan Chillán. Subimos por una empinada y bien utilizada ruta de caballos y recorrimos 5 kilómetros por una cresta hasta la vista del volcán con unos caballos que nos miraban en primer plano. ¡Entonces cruzamos un alto valle a algunas fuentes termales más naturales! Por desgracia no llegamos a pasar tanto tiempo en estos manantiales como los últimos, aunque pudimos disfrutar de ellos por un tiempo.

5
Los cuidadores de aguas termales con algunos de la madera de Manuel

Al coronar la siguiente silla a lo largo del Volcán Chillán, escuchamos algo que sonaba como un tobogán de roca. Mirando hacia el ruido, vi una gran pluma de humo saliendo de la boca del volcán. Había supuesto que la mayoría de los volcanes estaban latentes o agresivamente activos; Como resulta, algunos son mínimamente activos. Vimos el humo viajar por el cielo y cubrir el sol arriba. Poco después, la ceniza empezó a llover mientras bajábamos el valle. Nos aceleramos y nos hizo tiempo rápido bajando al río en el fondo del valle.

6
Caballos que miran fijamente en el paso cerca de Volcan Chillan

Después de cruzar el río y no ver más humo siendo eructado fuera del volcán, nos detuvimos a comer un poco de almuerzo antes de dirigir hasta un último paso antes de la ciudad. Sobre el paso, bajamos a un valle y pudimos seguir un camino bien viajado de animal a una carretera que luego nos llevó a la comunidad de Puente Inglés.
Llegamos a Puente Ingles en un sábado, que no era conveniente para coger un autobús en la ciudad más cercana de San Fabian, pero era práctico para hacer autostop en la ciudad. Incluso entonces, tomó un tiempo para que alguien nos recogiera, ya que la mayoría de los vehículos que pasaron estaban llenos de gente y cosas. Finalmente nos dieron un paseo por un hombre local con su hijo para el día. Nos contó muchas cosas en el trayecto, incluyendo la gran presa que se está construyendo a lo largo de Rio Nubles que, una vez construida, inundará la comunidad de Puente Inglés. Llegamos a San Fabián y encontramos un albergue dirigido por una amable mujer llamada Angélica. Ella nos dio la bienvenida y nos ayudó con más información sobre la ciudad, incluyendo donde el internet era (la plaza de la ciudad) y donde encontrar comida (qué mercados tenía qué) Gracias a los lugareños, pudimos sacar el máximo provecho de nuestro tiempo en la ciudad.

7
Neon con Volcan Chillan teniendo un erupcion menor en el fondo
9
Nuestra parada de autobus / una parada de autobus
8
Un flujo de lava mas antiguo cerca de Volcan Chillan
10
Angelica con su hija y nieto

 

Posted in En Español, Her Odyssey, Neon, Patagonia Thru-Hike, Uncategorized
2 Comments
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Comments (2)

  • cliff rawley February 28, 2017 at 10:46 am Reply

    Thanks for the amazing pictures and commentary. Please stay away from any more active volcano mountains. You are so blessed to enjoy the hospitality of such gracious people.
    Happy Birthday, Neon.

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  • Gretchen March 6, 2017 at 2:00 pm Reply

    What a beautiful blue sky!! Have been catching up recently on the posts, after following the facebook feed the whole time. Love the additional photos and description 🙂

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When you practice the bell of mindfulness, you breathe in, and you listen deeply to the sound of the bell, and you say, "Listen, listen." Then you breathe out and you say, "This wonderful sound brings me back to my true home. Our true home is something we all want to go back to. Some of us feel we don't have a home.

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